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BALMAIN SPRING SUMMER 2017 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 80 LOOKS
The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo Shirt is the key print of the Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear, a second bite of the cherry and another hefty continuous collection series of Tisci’s iconic imagery thrown in the direction of fashioning religion with designs on niche leading streetwear monopolised by the house brand.
It’s a polo shirt specifically intended for anyone who admired the Parisian designer’s ambition in creating a contentious figure – Jesus Christ – but who balked at that designer’s almost thousand-dollars price. Or those who, for one reason or another, dithered and dallied for just long enough to miss out on it’s predecessor Givenchy’s Spring Summer 2013 Madonna menswear production run.
Low-volume editions are going to be an increasingly important part of Givenchy’s business model, and if it’s to be a successful part the designer needs to be smart enough to satisfy appetites like the one the Givenchy Madonna left in its wake. And so here it goes: this is street-ready religious propagandize, take two.
On paper, the $850 dollars Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo would appear to represent pretty poor value besides the $300 dollars cheaper and only a few details less potent regular print oversize t-shirts. But in reality nothing could be compared further from the truth. Because the moment when you set your eyes upon this street influence, religion burning, monster Jesus concentric polo, if you have so much as an ounce of addiction towards Parisian designers in your veins you will likely be hooked by it. At which point that initial brief glance will turn into a long-lasting gaze of childlike, slightly bewildered amazement, because beneath it’s be-winged cotton fabric skin is very much the real deal. It’s edges has been trimmed in a delicious combination of barb wire – a true testament feature to the house codes. It’s main print has been thoroughly reiterated to include a full on black and white gradient Jesus portrait, a controversial yet definitive figure in the modern day context. So what then is the new $850 like to wear?
The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo is quite an expensive piece to pay for and it only has a set of prominent details to show. First impression of the super-aggressive oversize print gives off a truly jaw-dropping presence when anyone first lay eyes on it. It has this amazingly old-fashioned charm that you just don’t get in anything similar nowadays. Number one of which is the achetypal double-stars on the upper chest – a symbolic aspect that represents the house brand, and number two of which is the way it looks, the first time if you set your eyes on this thing, your knees literally goes a little wobbly. It is breathtakingly beautiful to see in person and the complete set of barb wire housing the front, shoulders, and the back, makes any Givenchy enthusiast a complete sucker for details like these.
It’s incomparable to the other Givenchy predecessor league prints because of its eccentric uniqueness. The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo Shirt is accompanied by so much fantastically strong subjective impressions, that the moment one step out the door will definitely invite much gaze – more than what one could bargain for, it is not for the faint-hearted. The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo Shirt only comes in one oversize cut which gives the wearer a comfortable fit, while sleeves are tapered to accommodate a closer fitting. It’s a method of what a proper polo shirt should always feel like, not too fitted, not too oversize, it does however sort of dynamic terms feels like it’s something from yesteryears, but they made some lovely designer wear in yesteryears, and yet this one in this year is easily the nicest Givenchy top I’ve worn.
Givenchy took the initiative to unveil its Pre-Spring 2017 menswear just merely three weeks prior to the main preview of Spring Summer 2017 at Paris Fashion Week. It was a trajectory projection lookbook series that consist a small collection of 15 head-to-toe retro subculture outfits for the menswear division, armed with notorious accessories to pair with.
The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear influences were based upon skinhead romanticism towards the 90s underground music scenes, an expression creative director Riccardo Tisci was also known for his own fair of techno underbelly in the past, having frequented rave parties like “Angels of Love” as a young teen in during his nineties.
Captured at the streets of Naples, known for its renowned grittiness and danger was contrasted against beauty and elegance of the city. The coastal metropolis was a source of pride for the creative director whose have-not upbringing in Taranto and Como didn’t douse deep affection for his home country. It was an indicator of his influence, which has mostly subverted from eccentric corners of many cities.
There are numerous expressions renowned to the house’s traditional code with the use of sporting silhouettes in monochromatic blacks and white order. But perhaps more so than ever before, it’s a test site for new volumes and shapes, creating profiles that were infused between street and couture culture. The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear inherits around the same worlds and influences that contains the clubbers featuring a sporty tonal incrustations on the coats, bombers and sweaters, urban-style features in oversized parkas, work wear jackets and tracksuit bottoms with ostentatious signature Givenchy house band, including a number of branded knee socks and rave masks. Meanwhile, traditional suits, jackets, and shirts with stove piped red accents effectively blurred the line between daywear and nightclub underline the brand’s constructed vision of the classic man, as strongly interpreted throughout the past seasons.
The key graphic gutsiness iconography captured in the collection resembles an ancient Egyptian motif reprised from the Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 womenswear collection, it is suggested that Tisci is finding new interested in the old codes. This elevated iconography defined one of three thematic that the creative director deployed for Pre-Spring 2017. The same theme were then transformed to different outcomes, hence an ancient Egyptian falcon visual was paramount as a total athletic feature or was heat-bonded onto jacket tails, other details repeated across archetypes. While offerings of the season were primarily shot on the streets of Naples, providing backdrops that spanned from refined to rundown, a denim range shot in studio rounded out the season.
Riccardo Tisci recognizes it is a challenging moment for luxury and fashion, and his answer is to exalt and hammer home the codes he has been building. “Even young generations, in a moment of crisis, want to buy something that they recognize,” he said. “So identity is the key.”
GIVENCHY PRE-SPRING 2017 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 15 LOOKS
At Balmain’s second ever menswear runway show after last season’s summer’s dessert safari-explorer collection, the Parisian house renege towards its core values featuring a remix of classic elegance and modern sophistication. The grand venue was gold-lined, rows of glittering chandeliers hung up on high ceilings above an ultra-modern glossy pitch ¬black runway, an archetypal feature to the house of Balmain codes. Creative director Olivier Rousteing showcased a handsome offering of brazenness extravagance of the 19th century startled, it was Napoleonic mission to delivered in a grandeur of what was Rococo met Fabergé, met War and Peace, met Versailles, met Claude Montana, met Dune, and the Highlander, in a dizzying display of resplendence pitched at the aristocracy of fortunes.
This time the collection was by far most extreme in its own kind, Rousteing pushed his signature concept beyond the standard approach and high above limits. The Balmain Fall Winter 2016 menswear featured a high percentage of clothing embellished in Swarovski crystals and gold embroidered that riffed off military wear staples, a powerful form mostly highly desired by Balmain army fanatics. It was certainly audacious, certainly over the top, and overly done, but the collection designed in its very form of luxurious language seems to feeds the brand in high energy and conviction, it almost seem like the entire production was taken from BBC’s War and Peace. The Balmain transition in Fall Winter 2016 has been quiet remarkable, it was a glimpse of fresh air, yet again, unashamed, youthful, and unflappable optimism – a small yet large dedicated collection towards a niche market of consumers who find great appreciation towards this complex phantom approach.
What I desired most out of the sea of sparkles were some of the closing jackets, a midnight blue double breasted velvet jacket dressed in gold embroidered epaulettes, cuffs, and lapel which resembles a core feature dated back towards the earlier Asian infused Balmain Fall Winter 2013 Menswear – it is after all a classic piece in the Balmain norm, a staple prominent piece which every Balmainac wardrobe requires but runs deep in one’s pocket. There were a number of tailcoats, equestrian-style knee-high boots, jackets belted in wide quilted cummerbund held with calfskin leather thronging trimmed with fancy long tassels, drop crotch velvet trousers were best to my liking – a sense of style beyond the standard of fashion but yet future-proofed as these elements were all too similar, it rings a bell that these were first introduced once three years ago, and now it has returned again. STORY CONTINUES BELOW.
BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 63 LOOKS
Few sections of the fashion enthusiast community are more prone to such things than Givenchy devotees. It’s Parisian’s punishment for making the world’s greatest menswear – on and off, but mostly on – embarking on his second decade at the House of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has continuously tackled big themes with abstract notions in detailing dark obsessions, religion of the soul, freedom or love driven by dramatic expressions, that any significant change to it will also be regarded as a contentious one.
Unleashed in a torrent of new ideas this runway was oddly painted in fondant-pink, lit up in florescent tubes in a confined space and intense lighting yields a diverse and energetic collection, it was freedom. With the Fall Winter 2012 generation of house motto, the cue was enraged Rottweilers; leading towards Pre-Fall 2012 and 2013, were Sharks and double-headed Dobermans; with the Fall Winter 2015, it was those screaming Monkeys. And now, with the Fall Winter 2016, new-fangled Cobras. How dare they? The fact remains though, that whether or not you like the idea of what Tisci has just done in his latest Givenchy collection of its perennially blooming menswear, he is just wild about animals.
Last chance to buy your Givenchy Grey Monkeys Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt or the heavier substitute Givenchy Black Monkeys Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt in SSENSE.
Translating the Cobra element into a line of clothing is a tricky disposition, nevertheless Tisci will always find innovative ways, it appeared in a dozen times as intarsias, traditional prints, embroidery on typical sweaters, and oddly laser cut-out bomber jackets that had a bit of lumpy effect, as if it was made to look aesthetically substantive, exaggeration in its natural order as though it was a part of the wearer – it’s appeal was a head turner, difficult to be dismissed, and yet draws inquisitiveness to the mind.
Riccardo Tisci grew up in Italy dreaming of America, driven by the land of the free was an interpretation of various subcultures the designer extracted from his recent influence. The bejewelled crystal and studded in riveted elements strikes a very stark contrast in the Fall Winter 2016 collection. The Givenchy’s renegade cult gang dressed up in leather and metal-heavy, bodies volumes, and more blistered forms offer a plenty, visual subtlety, and more muscular than ever.
It is somehow much more prepossessing than the recent anticipated Berlin club kids Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear collection and at a much greater contentment to be looked at. Tisic created homage cowboys’ coats yokes of jackets, with shiny crystals gleaming, including a patched of leather in copper rivets, simply penny-sized studs. His main canvas was embellishments, pocking surfaces of coats, the groin of trousers, and the plackets of denim jackets. Riveted elements played a great measure, while harmonizing atop a pointed-toe, Cuban-heeled Mexican and cowboy boots.
What we have here are differing routes to the design of equally appealing clothing. Two years ago you’d probably have given this Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear collection the edge as a simple object of desire, but now – for reasons I can’t quite put my finger on – I wouldn’t. Perhaps the predominant main collections in the past just ages more gracefully.
GIVENCHY FALL WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 64 LOOKS