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Thom Browne Navy Nautical Anchor Embroidered Blazer

3rd December 2014

Short jackets or blazers has continued to remain in vogue with many of the leading luxury menswear designer labels and has since stay stylishly relevant for more than half a decade. The concept of short jackets is that it makes one look taller, the jacket length finishes higher on the trouser, leaving more leg showing which gives the illusion of lank. This works to a certain perspective as a long length jacket such as an overcoat will certainly render its wearer shorter to the average eye. The other purpose behind the concept is that it gives the jacket a casual appearance. Thom Browne is perhaps the most famous influential advocate of the ‘shrunken look’, specialising in cut short blazers, jackets, suits and the short-pants-bare-ankles identity which has eventually transform our view and conceivably impact the highstreet industry because of his creative innovation.

Back in the earlier days, people were all worried that the style was a fad since it seems to be deliberately cater for the short-to-moderate height customer. After more than half a decade since its inception, majority of the global consumers still feels the same and finds difficulty understanding the distinct philosophy behind the brand. However, sales in China and Japan reveals his biggest success story because Browne’s fit-guide works best in this part of the world. Much like the average consumer, I was disappointed at the beginning with the fit but eventually found acceptance and affection for Thom Browne. I guess it generally takes time and repeated exposure to learn to like the brand, the tricolor stripe grosgrain trim is the ultimate label identification which can be quite addictive. Discover a closer look at Thom Browne’s Fall Winter 2014 Lookbook collection.

Outfit

Givenchy Red Fighter Stars Appliqué Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt

24th October 2014

Just over a year ago, I was privileged enough to have picked up a Givenchy Green Fighter Jet Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt from BOOMBAYEH – a Netherlands designer specialist who has concede flexible shopping and shipping terms at his notably eBay website, has continuously fashioned me as a loyal customer. The Givenchy Green Fighter Jet Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt back in Pre-Spring 2013, was no doubt one of the most desirable and sought after Givenchy oversize t-shirt. It is no surprise that the t-shirt took the best seller in its category.

The Givenchy Green Fighter Jet Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt was a one of a kind, one can literally observe the abstract spitfire print detailing all day and get daze off the boundless clouds with silver-gold lining. An exclusive print t-shirt that features all the best key trademarks, such as the contrast 2D star-coding neckline, Tisci’s “7” and “4” sleeve numbering, and even superseded initials were signed off dating back to the creation year 2012. The fighter jet print main characteristics draws from the immense eye candy complication facade, several World War II fighter planes took part in the abstract propeller focused print, ranging from Supermarine Spitfire to the A6M Zero Fighter that keeps the historic concept buzzing perpetually.

It felt like the ultimate prized treasure to my wardrobe collection, and made me a very happy owner. But unfortunately earlier that year, I was careless enough to have lost it by leaving it in a hotel’s closet during a getaway trip to Singapore. What was even more unforgivable is when I only realized it was gone returning after a week. Much to my dismay, I could not believe I have left behind an almost brand new $700 Givenchy t-shirt! And yet till today, the feeling of losing it still remains a painful memory and thoughts haunts me every time I recall how absent-minded I was – One man’s pain is another man’s pleasure.

Despite the unfortunate event a year ago, I was offered two generous opportunities in Fall Winter 2014 to repurchase the Givenchy Fighter series since I find the latest Givenchy Bauhaus Basketball collection unfavorable to my liking. Late in Pre-Spring 2013 saw the introduction of the Givenchy Red Fighter Star Appliqué Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt, a very expensive ($1,150 at launch) star appliqué value added model that saw several consumers lose their shirt on when it was revealed shortly after the Givenchy Green Fighter Jet Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt. Since its inception, the red fighter t-shirt hog the limelight over the earlier green fighter variant, I could recall how fast the sizes were checked out on websites, flew off shelves in-stores eminently, and even the local Givenchy boutique in Malaysia kept its reservation a secret, only saving for their most exclusive clientele.

The Givenchy Red Fighter Jet Star Appliqué Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt enjoyed meteoric sales success, it was extremely difficult to acquire even with its willful extravagance prices back then, and I was not even spared with any luck. The first opportunity collection arises in late July 2014, when a Givenchy specialist had offered me a chance to purchase the hugely popular Givenchy Red Fighter Jet Star Appliqué Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt in a brand new in a size XS, while the second opportunity came knocking on my door (or mobile phone) when a Singaporean friend persuaded my self-indulgence to purchase his untouched closet sleeper Givenchy Green Fighter Jet Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt in a size XXS – it was a difficult but enjoyable decision.

Outfit

Givenchy Red Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Contrast Shirt

1st October 2014

In the previous review, we focused on the Givenchy Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Shirt Pre-Fall 2014 in both white and black variants, and earlier looked into the Givenchy Camouflage Stripe Star-Print Collar Stay Shirt Pre-Spring 2014. Both of these designs showcases a prominent star-coding collar stay feature highlighting a touch of distinction among the saturated pool of luxury designers.

Gone were the days when quintessential crisp shirts came along, formalities and practicality went out of the window. For years, Givenchy has been making the ultimate production of menswear, and with its continuous experimentation with the standard cotton poplin shirt prove that creative use of intrinsic elements can be mesmeric too.

Amongst the most important complementary pieces in the Givenchy Pre-Fall 2014 menswear, the Parisian designer’s latest Star-Print Metal Collar Shirt series harkened back from the earlier creations of Fall Winter 2013 – The Givenchy Red Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Contrast Shirt defined to be the ultimate trendsetter shirt of this season. First off impression, observation starts on the immense cervical-collar styling of the neatly symmetrical proportion shirt. Vogue from its distinguished monochromatic contrast collar and aesthetically pleasing red reflective chrome collar stay inserts with exposed matte finish star-coding detailing.

Even at a quick glance from a distance is just as impressive, the shirt is instinctively recognizable made from plenty of high quality materials and the way everything is laid at the collar edge area are sharply focused in design. The vanguard use of red and star-coding might be a key reminiscent characteristic of the 20th century communist uniform, but repetitive usage has distinguish itself as the French designer’s primary identity and thrives in modern societies acceptance.

The Givenchy Red Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Contrast Shirt is aimed for evening wear, or for those who are simply Givenchy fans and don’t want to settle for the basic Givenchy Star-Embroidered Patch Shirt, or the similar sibling Givenchy 17 Metal Applique Collar Shirt. Needless to say, with the creative expertise and wearable credentials, the Givenchy Red Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Contrast Shirt is the perfect all rounder. It looks good, feels premium to own, and you can wear it with confidence in diversified occasions. What’s more, for this kind of design it is actually quite well priced and by pairing it sensibly can achieve some remarkable results.

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Outfit

Givenchy Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Shirt

19th September 2014

Givenchy lead the way with revolutionary shirt designs that pushes the boundaries of modern classic men’s shirt. Introduced just over a year ago in Givenchy Fall Winter 2014 menswear is the unique Givenchy Collar Stay Insert-Detail Cotton Shirt that features a pioneer reversed collar stay and an exposed detailed insert-tip that has never failed to draw admiration. Read Givenchy Pre-Spring 2014’s best Camouflage Stripe Star-Print Collar Stay Shirt.

It is no surprise that the French designer keeps getting it right with every new variant and each new facelift introduced for every season. The new moderately revised Givenchy Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Shirt from the Givenchy Pre-Fall 2014 Menswear collection offers a few varieties, and as usual there are both classic and seasonal designs to choose from.

As standard in each new variant comes with unique star-print metal collar stays – sometimes referred as collar bone, collar tabs, or collar stiffs/ stiffeners, are part of the prominent shirt accessory trademark. Givenchy innovated the conventional collar design by reversing the underside that has lead a range of design possibilities to play with, while retaining the traditional insert function to stabilize collar points.

In this season, I was privilege enough to have purchased two of the classic Givenchy Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Shirts available in primary white or black cotton poplin, followed by a seasonal Pre-Fall 2014 Givenchy Red-Metal Collar Stay Black & White Shirt that will be analysed in another post. The classic series characterize itself with its colourless silver metal collar stay that adds a nice touch with an off-white matte finish star and stripe print, The collar stays weights and feels well-made as part of the added jewelry feature. Furthermore, the collar stay insert pockets has a superior detailed texture which creates a subtle distinct contrast in comparison to the smooth cotton poplin.

Evidently with it’s exclusive collar feature and impeccable workmanship, there are however some downsides to it. The fabric integrated for the Givenchy Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Shirt is made from a new lightweight cotton poplin material, unlike the other Givenchy conventional shirts from the past seasons, such as its Givenchy Camouflage Stripe Star-Print Collar Stay Shirt sibling, the new lightweight cotton poplin is prone to wrinkles which makes it difficult to iron out even with when steam pressed, inadvertently leaving behind some unfortunate iron scorch marks.

It is difficult to avoid being notice when wearing the Givenchy Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Shirt, the reflective star-print metal collar stays illuminates reflective light that device an evocative notion at observers. Although practicability in maintenance might not come in ease, the Givenchy Star-Print Metal Collar Stay Shirt offers great value with a fine touch of distinction and would be an ideal solution for those who are looking to increase their Givenchy wardrobe staples.

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Outfit

Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated Black Leather High-Top Sneakers

8th September 2014

The Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated High-Top Sneakers is undoubtedly the ultimate metal-plated high-top series of its kind and sports as the leading flagship sneaker in Giuseppe Zanotti Fall Winter 2013. Bold, beautiful and beguiling, it looks and feels like the product of an Italian designer company at the top of its game.

A year since the Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated High-Top Sneakers was launched, it has made just as many waves as the profound classic double-bracelet series. The rigid silver-tonal metal bracelet house a fold-over velcro strap with signature-logo etched at the top vamp closure, but the real head turner feature here is the main gigantic one-piece constructed metal plaque which captures the power of luminosity, adding intrigue detailing more than the premium over contemporary double-bracelet editions.

Key specifications features a flat black leather exterior, tonal stitching, and rubber sole revolves the highest standard of luxurious materials epitomised from delicate textured finishes. The sleek hardware element accented the modernity sneaker through contrast refinement details, offering striking good looks and poise when you over step shoe game limits. “These are sneakers from the future,” said a friend who was captivated by the evocative silhouette and daylight eye-blinding mirror plates. Shop a range of diversified Giuseppe Zanotti Design men’s shoes available at multiple global boutiques in Farfetch.

But when you delve the extra large metal plaque that sit just right above the toes, it’s not such a great ideal as it first appear when footwear flexibility comes into play, as there is a bit far less practicality to go with. Other daily maintenance concerns includes the hardware rubbing into the upper vamp and cap-toe over a few wears which eventually eats into part of the delicate calf-skin finish. Nevertheless, this issue is a common Giuseppe Zanotti design imperfection that can be mitigated with a shoe polish.

I’ve always wanted the Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated Black Leather High-Top Sneakers as it has been one of the most desirable and grandiose Giuseppe Zanotti high-top sneakers one can find in the marketplace. Many thanks to a devoted reader from Singapore who has convinced me to make the right decision and purchase this iconic statement piece that has delivered head-turning looks with real world usability. The best part is, they don’t make them anymore (at the moment) which encapsulates it’s rarity and questionable future residual value. Fetch the last few pairs fast! As the remaining sizes are only limited available at SSENSE for now, since the prosperous Italian designer is currently focusing on much more berserk experimental seasonal designs such as the 2014’s signature chain series, they even made a chain embellished edition which looks stunning in a spectrum of shades!

Outfit

Balmain Blue Raw Stretch Biker Denim Jeans

7th August 2014

Most denim jeans you can buy these days have been pre-washed, pre-distressed and even pre-destroyed to alleviate the fabric material softer, further by reducing shrinkage and ideally to prevent the indigo dye from rubbing off. Raw denim or sometimes called ‘dry denim’ jeans are purely jeans made from denim that has not gone through the a pre-wash process.

The Balmain Blue Raw Stretch Biker Denim Jeans is not new in the biker game, made for Balmain Fall Winter 2014 menswear collection and much like it’s closely related sibling – the Balmain Blue Dirty Stretch Biker Denim Jeans, has returned to the shelves after it’s first initiation in Balmain Spring Summer 2014 menswear collection. This particular biker denim jeans fragments the same skinny-stretch silhouette at 16cm with iconic double front side pocket zippers, key distinction of ribbed-panelled knee caps and zipless open rear pockets. Market as the mid-tier segment Balmain biker denim jeans for men and much like the earlier Balmain Blue Dirty Stretch Biker Denim Jeans from Spring Summer 2013 has been transformed as part of a transitional season classic collection. Learn more about the Balmain Blue Dirty Stretch Biker Denim Jeans from Spring Summer 2013.

Because the fabric has not been pre-washed, the Balmain Blue Raw Stretch Biker Denim Jeans has a lot of loose indigo dye, it’s fabric is comparatively stiffer when wore the first few times in correlation with soften fabrics featured in it’s other brothers such as the predominant Balmain Black Washed Distressed Stretch Biker Denim Jeans and the more prominent Balmain Black Waxed Stretch Biker Denim Jeans. It takes a few regular wear to break-in and loosen up a pair, the deep blue indigo dye on the fabric is highly prone to colour transfers, it is easily rub off against anything that comes in contact, which means it will not be too kind on white leather shoes or even light coloured leather accessories pairing should be avoided.

Despite this, the raw blue indigo has a rich deep natural flavour that plays well against it’s sleek golden-orange high contrast stitching which makes the Balmain Blue Raw Stretch Biker Denim Jeans a real head turner. It’s casually aggressive rigorous material has been remodel with Balmain Homme’s ultimate signature biker outlook invented by the former pioneer Christophe Decarnin, executing an iconic casual elegant streetwear denim enhanced with a distinct stylish contouring. The Balmain Blue Raw Stretch Biker Denim poised a strong character and likeable desirability that is fitted for most Balmaniac who is looking to grow their personal collection, like me!

Sizing can be a bit of a trick, this is based on my personal experience as the French brand uses vanity sizing on their Japanese made jeans, unlike the Italian manufacturers that Balmain used once upon a time. It fits fairly large to size, which means while you may have a 32” waist, the sizing label on the denim jeans will state a size 30” just to make you feel better about yourself. This has not been a manufacturing defect or made by mistake as the irregular sizing has been known since the start of Balmain Fall Winter 2012, where the production of biker jeans has swiftly taken place in Japan.Take two sizes smaller for a close fit, or one size if you like to tuck in dense cotton shirts. Guide yourself with the Balmain Biker Jeans and Trousers Sizing for Spring Summer 2014, will update the latest Fall Winter 2014 size guide in a few weeks time or checkout my Balmain Fall Winter 2014 Collection Wishlist from Luisa Via Roma.

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