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Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 Menswear

16th June 2016

Givenchy took the initiative to unveil its Pre-Spring 2017 menswear just merely three weeks prior to the main preview of Spring Summer 2017 at Paris Fashion Week. It was a trajectory projection lookbook series that consist a small collection of 15 head-to-toe retro subculture outfits for the menswear division, armed with notorious accessories to pair with.

The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear influences were based upon skinhead romanticism towards the 90s underground music scenes, an expression creative director Riccardo Tisci was also known for his own fair of techno underbelly in the past, having frequented rave parties like “Angels of Love” as a young teen in during his nineties.

Captured at the streets of Naples, known for its renowned grittiness and danger was contrasted against beauty and elegance of the city. The coastal metropolis was a source of pride for the creative director whose have-not upbringing in Taranto and Como didn’t douse deep affection for his home country. It was an indicator of his influence, which has mostly subverted from eccentric corners of many cities.

There are numerous expressions renowned to the house’s traditional code with the use of sporting silhouettes in monochromatic blacks and white order. But perhaps more so than ever before, it’s a test site for new volumes and shapes, creating profiles that were infused between street and couture culture. The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear inherits around the same worlds and influences that contains the clubbers featuring a sporty tonal incrustations on the coats, bombers and sweaters, urban-style features in oversized parkas, work wear jackets and tracksuit bottoms with ostentatious signature Givenchy house band, including a number of branded knee socks and rave masks. Meanwhile, traditional suits, jackets, and shirts with stove piped red accents effectively blurred the line between daywear and nightclub underline the brand’s constructed vision of the classic man, as strongly interpreted throughout the past seasons.

The key graphic gutsiness iconography captured in the collection resembles an ancient Egyptian motif reprised from the Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 womenswear collection, it is suggested that Tisci is finding new interested in the old codes. This elevated iconography defined one of three thematic that the creative director deployed for Pre-Spring 2017. The same theme were then transformed to different outcomes, hence an ancient Egyptian falcon visual was paramount as a total athletic feature or was heat-bonded onto jacket tails, other details repeated across archetypes. While offerings of the season were primarily shot on the streets of Naples, providing backdrops that spanned from refined to rundown, a denim range shot in studio rounded out the season.

Riccardo Tisci recognizes it is a challenging moment for luxury and fashion, and his answer is to exalt and hammer home the codes he has been building. “Even young generations, in a moment of crisis, want to buy something that they recognize,” he said. “So identity is the key.”

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Balmain Fall Winter 2016 Menswear

27th February 2016

At Balmain’s second ever menswear runway show after last season’s summer’s dessert safari-explorer collection, the Parisian house renege towards its core values featuring a remix of classic elegance and modern sophistication. The grand venue was gold-lined, rows of glittering chandeliers hung up on high ceilings above an ultra-modern glossy pitch ¬black runway, an archetypal feature to the house of Balmain codes. Creative director Olivier Rousteing showcased a handsome offering of brazenness extravagance of the 19th century startled, it was Napoleonic mission to delivered in a grandeur of what was Rococo met Fabergé, met War and Peace, met Versailles, met Claude Montana, met Dune, and the Highlander, in a dizzying display of resplendence pitched at the aristocracy of fortunes.

This time the collection was by far most extreme in its own kind, Rousteing pushed his signature concept beyond the standard approach and high above limits. The Balmain Fall Winter 2016 menswear featured a high percentage of clothing embellished in Swarovski crystals and gold embroidered that riffed off military wear staples, a powerful form mostly highly desired by Balmain army fanatics. It was certainly audacious, certainly over the top, and overly done, but the collection designed in its very form of luxurious language seems to feeds the brand in high energy and conviction, it almost seem like the entire production was taken from BBC’s War and Peace. The Balmain transition in Fall Winter 2016 has been quiet remarkable, it was a glimpse of fresh air, yet again, unashamed, youthful, and unflappable optimism – a small yet large dedicated collection towards a niche market of consumers who find great appreciation towards this complex phantom approach.

What I desired most out of the sea of sparkles were some of the closing jackets, a midnight blue double breasted velvet jacket dressed in gold embroidered epaulettes, cuffs, and lapel which resembles a core feature dated back towards the earlier Asian infused Balmain Fall Winter 2013 Menswear – it is after all a classic piece in the Balmain norm, a staple prominent piece which every Balmainac wardrobe requires but runs deep in one’s pocket. There were a number of tailcoats, equestrian-style knee-high boots, jackets belted in wide quilted cummerbund held with calfskin leather thronging trimmed with fancy long tassels, drop crotch velvet trousers were best to my liking – a sense of style beyond the standard of fashion but yet future-proofed as these elements were all too similar, it rings a bell that these were first introduced once three years ago, and now it has returned again. STORY CONTINUES BELOW.

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Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear

5th February 2016

Few sections of the fashion enthusiast community are more prone to such things than Givenchy devotees. It’s Parisian’s punishment for making the world’s greatest menswear – on and off, but mostly on – embarking on his second decade at the House of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has continuously tackled big themes with abstract notions in detailing dark obsessions, religion of the soul, freedom or love driven by dramatic expressions, that any significant change to it will also be regarded as a contentious one.

Unleashed in a torrent of new ideas this runway was oddly painted in fondant-pink, lit up in florescent tubes in a confined space and intense lighting yields a diverse and energetic collection, it was freedom. With the Fall Winter 2012 generation of house motto, the cue was enraged Rottweilers; leading towards Pre-Fall 2012 and 2013, were Sharks and double-headed Dobermans; with the Fall Winter 2015, it was those screaming Monkeys. And now, with the Fall Winter 2016, new-fangled Cobras. How dare they? The fact remains though, that whether or not you like the idea of what Tisci has just done in his latest Givenchy collection of its perennially blooming menswear, he is just wild about animals.

Last chance to buy your Givenchy Grey Monkeys Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt or the heavier substitute Givenchy Black Monkeys Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt in SSENSE.

Translating the Cobra element into a line of clothing is a tricky disposition, nevertheless Tisci will always find innovative ways, it appeared in a dozen times as intarsias, traditional prints, embroidery on typical sweaters, and oddly laser cut-out bomber jackets that had a bit of lumpy effect, as if it was made to look aesthetically substantive, exaggeration in its natural order as though it was a part of the wearer – it’s appeal was a head turner, difficult to be dismissed, and yet draws inquisitiveness to the mind.

Riccardo Tisci grew up in Italy dreaming of America, driven by the land of the free was an interpretation of various subcultures the designer extracted from his recent influence. The bejewelled crystal and studded in riveted elements strikes a very stark contrast in the Fall Winter 2016 collection. The Givenchy’s renegade cult gang dressed up in leather and metal-heavy, bodies volumes, and more blistered forms offer a plenty, visual subtlety, and more muscular than ever.

It is somehow much more prepossessing than the recent anticipated Berlin club kids Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear collection and at a much greater contentment to be looked at. Tisic created homage cowboys’ coats yokes of jackets, with shiny crystals gleaming, including a patched of leather in copper rivets, simply penny-sized studs. His main canvas was embellishments, pocking surfaces of coats, the groin of trousers, and the plackets of denim jackets. Riveted elements played a great measure, while harmonizing atop a pointed-toe, Cuban-heeled Mexican and cowboy boots.

What we have here are differing routes to the design of equally appealing clothing. Two years ago you’d probably have given this Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear collection the edge as a simple object of desire, but now – for reasons I can’t quite put my finger on – I wouldn’t. Perhaps the predominant main collections in the past just ages more gracefully.

GIVENCHY FALL WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
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Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear

9th January 2016

Just 10 days prior to Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2016/2017 Menswear preview, the house of Givenchy revealed its latest Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear. The complete 15 look featured a photoshoot in the gritty streets of Berlin starring models Deion Smith and John Kolic for the menswear division.

Givenchy has watched the reaction to its ‘Monkeys’ collection closely which was the most desirable print in the recent Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear before signing off an extended decadent screaming pool of Monkeys version, awe-inspired from its class champion and predecessor sibling – the Givenchy Rottweiler from Fall Winter 2012 that has commanded a monumental success. Potentially the initial collection that has proliferated the Parisian brand through leveraging on its print making forte.

The even more hardcore multiplication of screaming Monkeys is the all-new second iteration to potentially uphold another big-hit in the luxury streetwear culture. It’s a measure of the historic significance of 2016 for the house of Givenchy that it can continuously ascend an equivalent replacement for the dramatic crescendo animal print that effectively turned around its fortunes just merely two seasons ago, and almost no one seems to notice. The reason is because the Monkeys collection represents Givenchy doing something it has hardly needed to do all over the past decade – consolidating what has spoilt us in the past.

There is a clear substance to Givenchy has brought the Pre-Fall 2016 menswear onto the pace of historic relevance. The most distinguishing ‘Swarovski Crystal and Studded’ elements returned this season, reference in details from its fast-moving Givenchy Swiss Crystal & Studded Sandals affair from the early Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection. The designer upped the ante by adorning the iconic impression across an array of ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear, knowing that it has nailed the underlying positioning and broader-brush execution more sweetly than ever. The crystal and studded elements becomes unmistakably distinctive in the new Pre-Fall 2016 menswear, including some breathtaking pieces such as the studded monk-strap shoes. Although some may argue that its initial conception was imitative to Miuccia Prada’s much earlier Spring Summer 2012 menswear which similarly featured multicolor bejewel-stone studs.

Using the same five pointed stars monogram element as another iconic extension from the Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection, the facelifted monogram for Pre-Fall 216 has undergone a fraction of makeover, mostly kept in understated in monochromatic colorway and even a leather embossed variant on trench. This five pointed stars monogram is the very first development primitive towards the Parisian house taking inspiration from the initial pseudo-religion experimentation.

Perhaps the most frugal and yet widely embraced offering in the Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 menswear extends a premium range of handmade denimwear, a symbolic classic of the American West embraced by Riccardo Tisci himself conjures a significant style improvement. The key detailing in this season is micro-distressed – subtle in details like moth bitten resultant, including typical washed out finishes, metal studded translations in denim jeans, shirting and jackets paired with mountaineering boots. This versatility in casual wear pairing is the main ability to relate to most consumers, it is the secret towards the denim’s survival as a clothing staple even in the luxury streetwear segment.

For all its new-found completeness, this Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear manages the same trick quite well through reiterating statement pieces of the past – although, in so many objective ways, it’s unquestionably a collection with more competitive anticipation once again.

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Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear Monkeys Religion Jesus Stars Monogram

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Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

30th June 2015

It’s a story we all know too well, a collection that reaches an age and it gets the obligatory nip and tuck, in the hope that a fresher look will consecutively appeal to those buyers who are interested. The Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear seems to the case, a consistent streamlined collection that speaks toward its avid fans again, the usual college jackets, tartan plaid print shirts, stove-piped jeans and etcetera, but there was something different this season. Prior to the show release, Saint Laurent Twitter gave out a few hints of the upcoming menswear collection; it was called “Surf Sound”, an elaborative and dedicated contemporary Califonian surf music culture collection. One of many American inspired stories that curated by creative director Hedi Slimane has since he took the office at Los Angeles.

Surf Sound is an interesting mix of California flavored thrift shop fashion with an arty cool vintage appeal at a music scene, it is called a continuous effort to promote Slimane’s commercial and critical galvanization to the house of Saint Laurent, mind grunge style it is. Iconic looks were reference from Nirvana’s front man Kurt Cobain and Canadian musician Neil Young. The soundtrack of the show was exclusively composed by Swimmers, a band based in Oakland, Calirornia. The soundtrack called “Like Harry Dean Stanton” includes innervation song lines like “I wanna be 16…”. In the show interest itself, Hollywood male models Charlie Oldman and Dylan Brosnan strut the catwalk debut as their noble fathers, Gary Oldman and Pierce Brosnan watch them on from the front row.

The latest Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection translate an array of diversified surf culture looks, the only consistency here was substance. A classic Saint Laurent long tuxedo smoking jacket were retuned with a colourful Hawaiian Palm Tree sequinned lapel, eminent cropped leather jackets came out with distinguished micro studded trims and contrast red accents, while there was an abundance of mix tattered plaid western shirts with frayed-hem raw cuts – these were ideal essentials for the Saint Laurent enthusiast.

There were much more as the motif collection continues with jacquard embroidered floral prints, oversized military camo coats returns, daisy floral prints, contrast striped knitwear, animal prints on bomber jackets and scarfs, party confetti prints, and lastly polka dots. The first look was the strongest amongst all, featuring a multicolor and multiprint patchwork on a black leather zipper jacket that has a definitive meaning of concluding the entire surf sound collection in one single piece. Then there was the stove piped denim jeans, this time there were high-waisted and loose in fit offered in a blown-out destroyed knees variant. Even crisp white leather sneakers were made used as if it has gone through several years of hard wear – these were ironically a line of luxury-assembled duplicates of cheap items one could find in most Cali-thrift shop sale.

But replicating such looks at a fraction of a price point would miss the essence of Slimane’s influence, because nothing feeds in desirability like partaking in an emotional journey curated by an unequivocal sartorialist. The word “curator,” truly applies to Slimane who conjure an unprecedented vibe. The spirited youth he casts for models on the streets in California, the uncharted artists and musicians he discovers, and the garment he chooses to aggregate, all paints a picture we all know to well, but finds little appreciation to comprehend such cultures in a daily basis, these are the future archetype that he is trying to evoke in a faultless assembly.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

The key items from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection are the colourful souvenir alike teddy varsity jackets, one of the cornerstone garments renowned by the house. The new teddy varsity jackets are portrayed in retro touches with luxurious couture embroidery and beading, similar towards the highly anticipated Saint Laurent Blood Luster Embroidered Teddy Varsity Jacket from Spring Summer 2014.

For aspiration young fans, buying Saint Laurent might be just a dream away but considering the more affordable accessories are probably the fundamental investment one could attain. The white plastic bug eyed sunglasses is a trademark of Cobain were mostly featured by the models in this season’s show. Some of them also had his dirty peroxide hair, though it’s probably the sunglasses that have the biggest pull for the well-heeled Saint Laurent customer. Additional accessories such as beanie knit hats, tucker caps, red knit socks, and leopard print cotton scarfs are key aesthetics for a Saint Laurent gratification.

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Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

28th June 2015

For almost as long as I can remember, the Balmain menswear collection was one of the most desirable amongst the others. Back in the late 2010s, the creation of Balmain Homme by Christophe Decarnin was a small spark to a large beginning, while I wasn’t into fashion at that time I did get a glimpse to experience the collection a few years later, it was one of the most memorable fashion experience I had. I could still recall my initial attitude towards the collection and its exorbitant pricing, which I thought was ludicrous at that time. But just having the privileged to appreciate the collection in reality felt rewarding, and much more once I’ve acquired a few pieces that I’m proud to call mine.

The Parisian catwalk saw a vast number of models, almost 30 looks extra as compared to its previous Paris Fashion Week debut. Balmain Homme has champion larger collections in every season until most recently in history, the Parisian house debut its very first former runway show. Creative director Olivier Rousteing expresses at a backstage interview that although women have always known the designer brand, menswear has accounted for a respectable 40 percent of the business. This huge prospect gave Balmain Homme the opportunity to showcase its first menswear show that also features a few advance viewing of Resort 2016 womenswear. “I have a chance with my brand, it’s that my woman and my man can actually buy their clothes together. So I think it was important to do my first show, and at the same time have my girls, which is really an important part of the business, and connect them together. I think it is really interesting because at a lot of the brands, the men and the women are really different. My Balmain men and my Balmain women are really synchronized and I’m really happy with that.” said Rousteing. The latter modeled by socialite Peter Brant, whose younger brother, Harry, also walked in the show, including world’s most successful male model, Sean O’Pry and Alessandra Ambrosio who decked in women’s resort. When questioned about Balmain Homme’s future, Rousteing said he would like a fond remembrance of this moment to even after 5 years down the line.

For this forthcoming season, Olivier Rousteing seeks inspiration from a safari exploration; an adventurous traveler finding treasures, the masculine Balmain men discovering the world quoted the designer. This is the third installation reflected from the classic theme that was initially explored in the most recent Balmain Fall Winter 2014 menswear, and the antecedent Balmain Spring Summer 2013 menswear collection. The new Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear derives equally from both former collections and seems to shares the same sentiment across an array of looks that are unique in the modern day context. The collection infuses in shades of brown, khaki, caramel, neutral earth tones, dusty whites and occasionally juxtapose against blacks with gold embroidered accents, bewildered ponyhair tiger prints were among the signature aesthetics that gave creation towards a luxurious attitude. A letter left on the venue seats expresses the creative designer’s though process and elaboration towards the latest collection – “Theapeutic Value”, the most fascinating things about designing.

The Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection represents a crossroads of cultural influences and the desert exploration embodied a metaphor for creation. At the end of the journey, the created object was a cathartic symbol. Most notable elements were reintroduced references from the earlier quest in heavy innovation. The desert exploration starts with leather jackets were intricately braided and laced in heavy luxurious detailing, while explorer suit came spliced in a double-breasted jacket series with refined satin touches. Military influences were all over; utility pockets were made into cargos detailing with belted key ring fastenings in slouchy drop-crotched pants. There was even more room for opulence, ending the vast few in shimmery gold embellishments made on black outfits to retains the exclusive legacy, some were embroidered from in phoenix and lions. The collection felt extremely luxurious and thrillingly glamorous.

A second take on the open-toe gladiator sandal has returned for the following season, this time there is a new line-up in various shades of browns and khaki colourway, typically in calf leather or suede variants in high-tops mimicking desert military boots in periodic translation. The latest distinct feature is the multi-velcro fastening which is truly unique by its repetition design, while others were equipped with mountaineer laces. Last made available in Balmain Spring Summer 2015 menswear in a black quilted leather lace-up variant, we think it’s grotesque and less well-received compare to it’s sneaker and military boots counterparts.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

First introduced in Balmain Fall Winter 2014 menswear in a ponyhair leopard variant, the wild party animal prints are back. Spotted near the finale of the show was the glistering Balmain Tiger Print Crest Embroidered Varsity Leather Jacket, a successor to its predecessor that may look delirious compared to the usual college wear, but this luxurious outwear is one of the collection’s ultimate masterpiece. I wouldn’t be surprise to see a few celebrities sporting one in the subsequent year.

Perhaps one of my most favourable statement jackets in this season is the Balmain Gold Embellished Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket, seen later near the end of the show is a classic piece that merit a second look. It is based on the earlier Balmain Satin-Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket that was first introduced in Balmain Spring Summer 2012 menswear, it was Rousteing’s first menswear collection as appointed creative director. The first series saw a python lapel that was worn by a few renowned celebrities; there was also a more accessible satin-lapel version which was later redesigned in following seasons. I find this a nostalgic piece simply because I own the earlier satin-lapel version, the new added gold embellished trims on the lapel redefines the entire outlook, the gold embellishments are plated like an scale armour – it exhibits a balance between masculinity and higher elegance, both attributes known to the house of Balmain.

The Balmain Camel Brown Drop-Crotch Cargo Trousers with suspended belt loops is an ideal piece for spring season, those who would like to break from the sweat can opt for the Balmain Camel Brown Utility Pockets Cargo Pleated Shorts in summer, but both of these styles are quite season based. If I have been given only one choice to pick the best out of the entire season, I would go for the Balmain White Cargo Leather Zipped Biker Sweatpants – this remarkable pair features various key elements that are significant to towards the Balmain Homme heritage, knee-ribbed details, oversized utility pockets on waist with belt loop fastening, and zipper embellished pockets.

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