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BALMAIN SPRING SUMMER 2017 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 80 LOOKS
Givenchy took the initiative to unveil its Pre-Spring 2017 menswear just merely three weeks prior to the main preview of Spring Summer 2017 at Paris Fashion Week. It was a trajectory projection lookbook series that consist a small collection of 15 head-to-toe retro subculture outfits for the menswear division, armed with notorious accessories to pair with.
The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear influences were based upon skinhead romanticism towards the 90s underground music scenes, an expression creative director Riccardo Tisci was also known for his own fair of techno underbelly in the past, having frequented rave parties like “Angels of Love” as a young teen in during his nineties.
Captured at the streets of Naples, known for its renowned grittiness and danger was contrasted against beauty and elegance of the city. The coastal metropolis was a source of pride for the creative director whose have-not upbringing in Taranto and Como didn’t douse deep affection for his home country. It was an indicator of his influence, which has mostly subverted from eccentric corners of many cities.
There are numerous expressions renowned to the house’s traditional code with the use of sporting silhouettes in monochromatic blacks and white order. But perhaps more so than ever before, it’s a test site for new volumes and shapes, creating profiles that were infused between street and couture culture. The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear inherits around the same worlds and influences that contains the clubbers featuring a sporty tonal incrustations on the coats, bombers and sweaters, urban-style features in oversized parkas, work wear jackets and tracksuit bottoms with ostentatious signature Givenchy house band, including a number of branded knee socks and rave masks. Meanwhile, traditional suits, jackets, and shirts with stove piped red accents effectively blurred the line between daywear and nightclub underline the brand’s constructed vision of the classic man, as strongly interpreted throughout the past seasons.
The key graphic gutsiness iconography captured in the collection resembles an ancient Egyptian motif reprised from the Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 womenswear collection, it is suggested that Tisci is finding new interested in the old codes. This elevated iconography defined one of three thematic that the creative director deployed for Pre-Spring 2017. The same theme were then transformed to different outcomes, hence an ancient Egyptian falcon visual was paramount as a total athletic feature or was heat-bonded onto jacket tails, other details repeated across archetypes. While offerings of the season were primarily shot on the streets of Naples, providing backdrops that spanned from refined to rundown, a denim range shot in studio rounded out the season.
Riccardo Tisci recognizes it is a challenging moment for luxury and fashion, and his answer is to exalt and hammer home the codes he has been building. “Even young generations, in a moment of crisis, want to buy something that they recognize,” he said. “So identity is the key.”
GIVENCHY PRE-SPRING 2017 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 15 LOOKS
At Balmain’s second ever menswear runway show after last season’s summer’s dessert safari-explorer collection, the Parisian house renege towards its core values featuring a remix of classic elegance and modern sophistication. The grand venue was gold-lined, rows of glittering chandeliers hung up on high ceilings above an ultra-modern glossy pitch ¬black runway, an archetypal feature to the house of Balmain codes. Creative director Olivier Rousteing showcased a handsome offering of brazenness extravagance of the 19th century startled, it was Napoleonic mission to delivered in a grandeur of what was Rococo met Fabergé, met War and Peace, met Versailles, met Claude Montana, met Dune, and the Highlander, in a dizzying display of resplendence pitched at the aristocracy of fortunes.
This time the collection was by far most extreme in its own kind, Rousteing pushed his signature concept beyond the standard approach and high above limits. The Balmain Fall Winter 2016 menswear featured a high percentage of clothing embellished in Swarovski crystals and gold embroidered that riffed off military wear staples, a powerful form mostly highly desired by Balmain army fanatics. It was certainly audacious, certainly over the top, and overly done, but the collection designed in its very form of luxurious language seems to feeds the brand in high energy and conviction, it almost seem like the entire production was taken from BBC’s War and Peace. The Balmain transition in Fall Winter 2016 has been quiet remarkable, it was a glimpse of fresh air, yet again, unashamed, youthful, and unflappable optimism – a small yet large dedicated collection towards a niche market of consumers who find great appreciation towards this complex phantom approach.
What I desired most out of the sea of sparkles were some of the closing jackets, a midnight blue double breasted velvet jacket dressed in gold embroidered epaulettes, cuffs, and lapel which resembles a core feature dated back towards the earlier Asian infused Balmain Fall Winter 2013 Menswear – it is after all a classic piece in the Balmain norm, a staple prominent piece which every Balmainac wardrobe requires but runs deep in one’s pocket. There were a number of tailcoats, equestrian-style knee-high boots, jackets belted in wide quilted cummerbund held with calfskin leather thronging trimmed with fancy long tassels, drop crotch velvet trousers were best to my liking – a sense of style beyond the standard of fashion but yet future-proofed as these elements were all too similar, it rings a bell that these were first introduced once three years ago, and now it has returned again. STORY CONTINUES BELOW.
BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 63 LOOKS
Few sections of the fashion enthusiast community are more prone to such things than Givenchy devotees. It’s Parisian’s punishment for making the world’s greatest menswear – on and off, but mostly on – embarking on his second decade at the House of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has continuously tackled big themes with abstract notions in detailing dark obsessions, religion of the soul, freedom or love driven by dramatic expressions, that any significant change to it will also be regarded as a contentious one.
Unleashed in a torrent of new ideas this runway was oddly painted in fondant-pink, lit up in florescent tubes in a confined space and intense lighting yields a diverse and energetic collection, it was freedom. With the Fall Winter 2012 generation of house motto, the cue was enraged Rottweilers; leading towards Pre-Fall 2012 and 2013, were Sharks and double-headed Dobermans; with the Fall Winter 2015, it was those screaming Monkeys. And now, with the Fall Winter 2016, new-fangled Cobras. How dare they? The fact remains though, that whether or not you like the idea of what Tisci has just done in his latest Givenchy collection of its perennially blooming menswear, he is just wild about animals.
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Translating the Cobra element into a line of clothing is a tricky disposition, nevertheless Tisci will always find innovative ways, it appeared in a dozen times as intarsias, traditional prints, embroidery on typical sweaters, and oddly laser cut-out bomber jackets that had a bit of lumpy effect, as if it was made to look aesthetically substantive, exaggeration in its natural order as though it was a part of the wearer – it’s appeal was a head turner, difficult to be dismissed, and yet draws inquisitiveness to the mind.
Riccardo Tisci grew up in Italy dreaming of America, driven by the land of the free was an interpretation of various subcultures the designer extracted from his recent influence. The bejewelled crystal and studded in riveted elements strikes a very stark contrast in the Fall Winter 2016 collection. The Givenchy’s renegade cult gang dressed up in leather and metal-heavy, bodies volumes, and more blistered forms offer a plenty, visual subtlety, and more muscular than ever.
It is somehow much more prepossessing than the recent anticipated Berlin club kids Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear collection and at a much greater contentment to be looked at. Tisic created homage cowboys’ coats yokes of jackets, with shiny crystals gleaming, including a patched of leather in copper rivets, simply penny-sized studs. His main canvas was embellishments, pocking surfaces of coats, the groin of trousers, and the plackets of denim jackets. Riveted elements played a great measure, while harmonizing atop a pointed-toe, Cuban-heeled Mexican and cowboy boots.
What we have here are differing routes to the design of equally appealing clothing. Two years ago you’d probably have given this Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear collection the edge as a simple object of desire, but now – for reasons I can’t quite put my finger on – I wouldn’t. Perhaps the predominant main collections in the past just ages more gracefully.
GIVENCHY FALL WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 64 LOOKS
Just 10 days prior to Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2016/2017 Menswear preview, the house of Givenchy revealed its latest Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear. The complete 15 look featured a photoshoot in the gritty streets of Berlin starring models Deion Smith and John Kolic for the menswear division.
Givenchy has watched the reaction to its ‘Monkeys’ collection closely which was the most desirable print in the recent Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear before signing off an extended decadent screaming pool of Monkeys version, awe-inspired from its class champion and predecessor sibling – the Givenchy Rottweiler from Fall Winter 2012 that has commanded a monumental success. Potentially the initial collection that has proliferated the Parisian brand through leveraging on its print making forte.
The even more hardcore multiplication of screaming Monkeys is the all-new second iteration to potentially uphold another big-hit in the luxury streetwear culture. It’s a measure of the historic significance of 2016 for the house of Givenchy that it can continuously ascend an equivalent replacement for the dramatic crescendo animal print that effectively turned around its fortunes just merely two seasons ago, and almost no one seems to notice. The reason is because the Monkeys collection represents Givenchy doing something it has hardly needed to do all over the past decade – consolidating what has spoilt us in the past.
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There is a clear substance to Givenchy has brought the Pre-Fall 2016 menswear onto the pace of historic relevance. The most distinguishing ‘Swarovski Crystal and Studded’ elements returned this season, reference in details from its fast-moving Givenchy Swiss Crystal & Studded Sandals affair from the early Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection. The designer upped the ante by adorning the iconic impression across an array of ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear, knowing that it has nailed the underlying positioning and broader-brush execution more sweetly than ever. The crystal and studded elements becomes unmistakably distinctive in the new Pre-Fall 2016 menswear, including some breathtaking pieces such as the studded monk-strap shoes. Although some may argue that its initial conception was imitative to Miuccia Prada’s much earlier Spring Summer 2012 menswear which similarly featured multicolor bejewel-stone studs.
Using the same five pointed stars monogram element as another iconic extension from the Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection, the facelifted monogram for Pre-Fall 216 has undergone a fraction of makeover, mostly kept in understated in monochromatic colorway and even a leather embossed variant on trench. This five pointed stars monogram is the very first development primitive towards the Parisian house taking inspiration from the initial pseudo-religion experimentation.
Perhaps the most frugal and yet widely embraced offering in the Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 menswear extends a premium range of handmade denimwear, a symbolic classic of the American West embraced by Riccardo Tisci himself conjures a significant style improvement. The key detailing in this season is micro-distressed – subtle in details like moth bitten resultant, including typical washed out finishes, metal studded translations in denim jeans, shirting and jackets paired with mountaineering boots. This versatility in casual wear pairing is the main ability to relate to most consumers, it is the secret towards the denim’s survival as a clothing staple even in the luxury streetwear segment.
For all its new-found completeness, this Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear manages the same trick quite well through reiterating statement pieces of the past – although, in so many objective ways, it’s unquestionably a collection with more competitive anticipation once again.
GIVENCHY PRE-FALL 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 15 LOOKS