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Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

28th June 2015

If you were one of the many fans of the old Givenchy’s religion theme, then you will be happy to hear there is an upcoming future collection along the way.

Givenchy’s menswear show in Paris for Spring Summer 2016 menswear was a pleaser, in many senses. It features the distinct iconography that many of the cult fans were looking forward to, mainly thought provoking and menacing prints. The latest collection shares significant fragments with its antecedent and much anticipated Givenchy Spring Summer 2013 Madonna menswear and the earlier pioneered Givenchy Fall Winter 2010 Altar menswear, both former collections that places religion at the limelight while connecting several elements with the label’s latest style direction — namely pinstripes that derived from the recent Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 menswear. Addition to this, was a whole new five pointed star monogram motif that incorporates the designer’s brand name embedded in a structural arrangement, it was a divine.

This season Riccardo Tisci revisits his religious bent, an iconography signature administered since the beginning of his career at Givenchy. The creative director opened the show with models and celebrities strutting the runway in a relentless place. Hefty religious references advocating Tisci’s Catholic roots and prison-like ensembles of the latest incarnation made up the menswear collection. Taking inspiration for this season was Jesus Christ, the central figure of Christianity was surrounded by barbed wire taken from the ‘Crown of Thorns’ which was induced across an array of looks. The religious iconography continued not limited to oversize prints but some were even plastered in pin-ups cross variants as though they were taken off a scrapbook. Mostly portraits looks were scattered in trademark colours of black, white and navy along with pinstriped on many imaginable garments.

Perhaps the most intriguing and questionable subject in the biblical Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear was the numbers 19520 in convict bold lettering over the Jesus imagery. While these numbers certainly do not appeal through first observation or conclude a direct interpretation even after Googling. A theory of its implication could be speculate by adding up the existing numbers which aggregates to number 35. By perchance, the significance could be correlated to one of the Bible notes for John 11:35 “Jesus Wept”, is the shortest verse in the Bible and one of the most emotional.

It’s not uncommon to see how designers have a tendency to weave womenswear pre-collections into menswear shows. Givenchy has been leading such trends as early in 2013 and it also shouldn’t be a surprise to find celebrities taking the latest collections onto the runway itself. Tisci handpicked some of his favorite girls to grace alongside the boys which has been hyped during the post event. Kendell Jenner, Joan Smalls, and Candice Swanepoel were in couture gowns adorned with feathery, petal, fringed, and lacey dress in a range of soft cool pastels colours, they were some of the odd contrast set against the religious prisoner theme. However, the most exciting celebrity modelling stage was when Naomi Campbell closed the show with nothing more than a chain-glittered blazer over a black skimpy bikini which made a memorable moment for the show.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

For aspirational cult fans, statement accessories are the way to go with the collection’s symbolic oversize key ring necklace featured dangling around the model’s necks. This distinctive jewellery represents a dramatic expression that is well-established with Tisci’s thought provoking style direction which may deliver the most value out of one’s investment.

For all one knows, the Givenchy Jesus Crown of Thorns Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt is perhaps set to be one of the most fast moving pieces when it hits the retail stores due to its large sheer presence print that gives off a menacing approach with the five pointed stars trademark element. Expected retail is around $1,300 much like the recent Givenchy Gypsophila Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt, nonetheless prices may fluctuate in the near future. The Givenchy Jesus Crown of Thorns Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt features the infamous Crown of Thorns detailing set against the edge of the polo’s silhouette, a cross reference from the ever-popular and still in demand Givenchy Shark & Mermaid Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt that has chain detailing as the earlier settlement.

In terms experimentation, the Givenchy Jesus Print Patched PVC Sweatshirt is an interesting option to explore. This unique sweatshirt is made out of a flexible PVC material replacing the traditional cotton fabric featuring Jesus imagery in random patches, but it simply feels out of depth and substandard compared to the sheer fabric overlay sweaters and t-shirts.
Mini cross lapel pins are a novelty feature amongst sharply tailored suits and coats that made up the building blocks for this Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection. While boxy cut silhouettes are at an abundance in pinstriped movements found particularly on short-sleeves cotton shirts and oversize shorts. Footwear wise, the designer has left us with a T-bar sandals and exposed cap-toe slits on casual leather shoes, personally I think they are really hideous as compared to what has been offered in the past. Lastly but not least, for those who can reach into deep pockets may be privilege to experience one of the most prominent pieces such as the Givenchy Pinstriped Chain Embellished Suits or outlined jackets and coats.

GIVENCHY SPRING SUMMER 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 61 LOOKS

Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Jesus Religion Chain Runway Show Look 1

Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Jesus Religion Chain Runway Show Look 2

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Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 Menswear

25th June 2015

Just one week ahead of unveiling Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear at Paris Fashion Week, Givenchy releases its Pre-Spring 2016 showcase in a traditional set of lookbook images. This time around, it seems as though the French fashion house has strategically set to launch its pre-collection menswear in-line with the womenswear resort collection, much like the antecedent Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 menswear showcase. Furthermore, most looks has been significantly reduced, there are only 9 looks in every pre-collection since Pre-Fall 2015. And if you compare it with the Givenchy Pre-Spring 2014 menswear collection which features a staggering 26 looks, that simply means only 1/3 of the entire collection is represented in advance.

The first half of Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 menswear is dominated by several traditional pinstripe elements in a full set of clothes ranging from shirts, ties, coats and suits, these belongs to the everyday classic wardrobe collection which may seem ideal for most men who are seeking a distinctive formal style. The powerful impressions represented in a small selection of linear monochromatic black, charcoal gray, and ivory white fabrics with complementary pinstripe colours derives in sharply tailored formalwear from the suiting culture of Italy where the creative designer was raised. For less formal occasions, Tisci crafted an army staple series in military green suiting featuring utilitarian pockets highlighted in darker contrast, paired with a mint green poplin shirt that has a khaki outlines which engages the necktie.

In the past collections, Tisci has been renowned to introduce feminism in experimental colours to bridge a balance in masculine distinction, we have seen baby blues, light pinks and mint greens are often exercise along with romantic motifs in particularly pre-spring and spring summer menswear collections. As such, the colour mint green is bound to return this Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016. The new Givenchy mint green native american carpet print sets out in a classic sweatshirt, columbian-fit polo t-shirt and a button-up knit skirt formerly introduced in Fall Winter 2015. First incepted from the Givenchy Spring Summer 2012 Birds of Paradise menswear, this singular colour palette has returned with an equally distinct print that exudes from the native american carpet motif procure from the current Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear, although my first impressions towards the graphic motif reminisce a jewel Tetris game as resulted from the predominant acid green inlays and jewel like embodiment.

As for every pre-collection, it goes without saying that Givenchy has planned an animal print in hope to foster the ever popular Rottweiler since Givenchy Fall Winter 2011 menswear. Therefore in this Pre-Spring 2016 season, a pair of roaring baboons under the trademark single star enclosure in a gray sweatshirt variant is subject to please cult fans who are looking for diversification. This particular print originated from the first Givenchy Star & Monkey Print Sleeveless T-Shirt, assembled along with a black sweatshirt variant that is yet to be made available along the Fall Winter 2015 season. While at the rugged front sports a set of denim archive offered in light blue wash with minor distressed throughout the fabrics including leather insertions patched on to collar and sleeves detailing. Lastly, the least exciting Givenchy Logo Print Destroyed Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt is bound to return in the following season which begs us to questions whether the designer is indicating a further uphold in the destroyed attributes amongst future styles.

Discern from the footwear corner is a pair of Givenchy Black Derby Lace-Up Leather Shoes with contrast white soles and in the causal end there is a very unusual piece of frankenstein creation. At first sight, the sneakers is what seems to be inspired from a pair of boat shoes. Innovated in its truly unique silhouette boast a low-top and high-top variant featuring metal contrast eyelids and lace ups for both, while high-tops variants gets an additional tasselled feature with an upper vamp similar to those found on a mountaineer boots. The rubber midsoles element is crafted with a razor-cut wave design and is perhaps the most distinct feature which shares similarities from Givenchy’s iconic Tyson sneaker.

Let’s discuss…

Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 Menswear

Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 Menswear

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Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 Menswear

29th January 2015

Hedi Slimane left for America and based himself in Los Angeles since 2007, the brand’s creative director unveiled the Saint Laurent studio there ever since he took reign. Slimane’s inspiration may have come in many parts of American culture, but he hasn’t forgotten the spiritual home of Saint Laurent.

On Sunday’s night, Saint Laurent previewed the final show of Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2015 menswear, but unlike the precedent collections – this season’s message was somewhat deliberately different. At the backstage, the designer proclaimed that he has just issued the Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear project called “Paris Sessions”, taking creativity from a young generation of musicians in Paris, and that the collection was outlined as a homage about them. It was surely some of those young musicians who sat cross-legged on the floor of front row, while the original soundtrack reflected the lyrics of a song by Mystere written especially for this evening’s show. How could the Parisian cliché be even more evident?

A revelation of glittering lights form a motion maze at the centre stage of the venue upon arrival. While traditional flat seating were strategically converted to a stadium format, providing guest with an unrestricted view as panache models strode down the catwalk in casted groups. The runway show was accompany by a series of photographs released through an invitation book, which featured Los Angles based Oscar Tuazon who was inspired by what he calls “outlaw architecture” – an essence of DIY hippy culture and life living off the grid. The spirit, as well as the angular lines depicted from the architectural installations were naturally translated into catwalks of Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection. It was a time to say goodbye sumptuous glam-rock, and hello chic understatement.

As accord to Slimane’s Saint Laurent codes, silhouettes remains perpetually skinny tight throughout the entire collection. The inarguably noticeable colour that has driven the collection is perhaps the most essential and practical of all. Black is the mandatory colourway for this season, simply because it compliments almost everything. A signature designer look discern from a fitted three-button caban, an inverse-color Breton stripe sweater recollects a naval-series, coordinating various tops with skinny-skinny pants and stove pipe denim jeans. A grudge-touched pitch black jacket with polo-neck worn with black skinny leather trousers slashes with silver zippers is the all new biker conquest. While a sudden hot pink fur jacket commits a visual surge in the show, as well as many shimmering beaded blazers, have all became the hallmark of a resuscitate the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle.

In addition, Slimane also brought back his very own signature narrow suits and skinny ties back on the runway, and showcased a beautiful reinterpretation of the regular pinstripe suit. Majority of the looks were worn with cocked berets adorned with studded band pins which complete the French style. The only element that is consistent throughout the collection were the highly distinct 8cm cuban heel boots that pay tribute to earlier Dior Homme. It seems like the only way the youth can be cool is to reiterate styles of the past.

Needless to say, Saint Laurent is known to offer ineffable quality to its wearer and Hedi Slimane has created clothes with a certain je-ne-sais-quoi about them, summarising an expertly executed collection that is bound to sell out like hot-cakes. From today’s case point, the question lies whether did Slimane left the Californian boys for good? Shop the new arrivals from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 Psych Rock Menswear now available at Luisa Via Roma.

SAINT LAURENT FALL WINTER 2015 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
Complete 62 Looks in High Resolution

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Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 Menswear

25th January 2015

There is no two ways about it, the Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear is no doubt the most captivating collection prevalent to recent times. For this season, Riccardo Tisci has resulted his fall winter menswear collection with a devilish and dramatic affair, where subjects are spread across numerous inspired concepts from couture, romanticism, urban, cultures and eras. It was an idiosyncratic notion that enables the designer to fully express himself for once. During a backstage interview, the designer mentioned that this is the moment in his life where he has found serenity and was very happy with what he is doing. “I’m very faithful to myself. When you do things that are true it just comes out quite instinctively.” Tisci said. Shop the new arrivals from Givenchy Spring Summer 2015 Floral Gypsophila Menswear now available at Luisa Via Roma.

Source: Dazed, Givenchy’s dark magic – revisit the best of Paris menswear, illustration by Paul Wagenblast

A venue curated from an antique store furnished the runway set with random assortments of collector’s antiques, treasure objects were assembled which portrays an unusual figurine between the shimmering ruby red glitter pathway that echoes a haunting ambience. As the show begun, models strut the fiery catwalk with pinstripe wool suits, each were uniquely dissected through strategic layers, leading towards red-trimmed details on pitch back looks that seems to depict a classic representation of a devil’s outwear. Elements characterise their faces were no less a spectacular – featuring masked jewel rhinestones, drapery sea shells, metal elements and beaded pearls, some even had a Joker smudge makeup while others had their lips sealed by metal sutures that illustrates what would an unhinged extremist would effectuate on others. Intricate accessories dressed vital details includes raccoon tails, oversize safety pin brooch jewellery, and religious cross prints.

But perhaps the most notable creations in the Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection have taken inspiration from traditional carpets and textiles of Latin American culture. The latest season saw the return of the muted colours rug trend that seems to be the predominant theme; the extraordinary Aztec tribal motif tapestry work appears from time to time on numerous suiting options with distinct red-trimmed edges, jackets, coats, shirts, trousers, skirts, and was not even spared on the western boots. It gave the collection a rich sense of depth, depicting a fantastical folk tales in an authentic fashion. But what I liked most was the prominent black sequinned embellishment jacket, which fades into the graphic tribal tapestry print, and not to forget the sheer organza sweater with a rich touch of sequinned flakes, reflecting the beauty of decaying objects in exquisite detail.

The Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection received some high praises, what seems to be the most ambitious challenge this season is creative mix of breathtaking styles, where urban and traditional masculinity aesthetics coincide with elegant tailoring, and somewhat a macabre twist from a voodoo-esque. Besides the objective has been served, they were glad Tisci deterred his focus on presenting highly sough-after graphic print t-shirts and sweatshirts, although these are known to be the sales engine of the French designer label. Despite this, there is a small selection of noteworthy t-shirts that was highlighted during the runway presentation. Unfortunately these were mysteriously concealed over layers of outwear, which eventually drew consumer speculation over the initial print design.

The first t-shirt design I presume is an illustration of a ‘bat’ housed over a star capsule, was evidently similar to the Givenchy Shark Teeth Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt, however most readers are guessing it is a ‘wolf’ instead. While the second t-shirt looks what seems to be a elements of a sketch animal print identical to the Givenchy Doberman Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt, both of these resembles a series from the former Givenchy Pre-Fall 2013 menswear collection. Read also, my recent purchased Givenchy Rottweiler Star Appliqué Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt from Pre-Spring 2015.

GIVENCHY FALL WINTER 2015 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
Complete 61 Looks in High Resolution

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Balmain Fall Winter 2015 Menswear

23rd January 2015

‘Automne Hiver’ in French is where Parisian designer Balmain really excels in its evolutionary offerings – house appointed creative designer Olivier Rousteing produced a personal #balmainarmy collection that best describe the spirit of his generation and style comfortable to be called his own. He titled, dedicated, and pursuit the new aristocracy, underlying every inch of classic and elegance at the latest Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection.

The Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection feels tremendously luxurious, it is known to accentuate from all the fashion capitals of the world, by what Rousteing predicts as the current generation of artistocrats would wear during an evening night out. The designer focuses in referencing to a creative mix of classic tailored pieces with fluid styling blend in with contemporary hip-hop as blown up to oversized proportions pants and coat dominates the silhouette – a unique upmarket appeal that seeks a hefty price tag to match. Just by observing the richness of the collection oozes a symphony of detailed extravagance and sets off a distinct grandeur.

“It’s my royal army” said Rousteing in the show notes for the collection, as a troop of models marched into the 18th century gilded establishment of Hôtel d’Évreux mansion during the official catwalk presentation day. Black cashmere beanies and hints of military dress permitted every aspect of his menswear presentation. The designer has modulate on Balmain’s Spring Summer 2015 striped sports and race references which consist an abundance of casual jersey and knitwear, as the near future direction dwells across a diverse and comprehensive men in detailed regiment braiding.

Balmain’s proposed gold and red contrast embroidered lion crest became the opulence emblem feature of the Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection. It appeared from a variety of outwear, from royal velvet satin trimmed smoking cropped blazers to racoon fur hooded padded down bombers, quilted biker leathers, college varsity jackets, bathrobe long coats and even full-on beaver fur peacoats were not exempt from this feature.

Everything here is exquisite as seen because of the high levels of materials used inevitably played a vital role in signature looks. “For fall, I turned to more ‘regal’ fabrics, including rich velvets, silks and cashmere, but I’ve worked to maintain that same easy vibe, in part by relying on over-sized and relaxed cuts.” as declared by the designer. The main anchor series of the collection emphasis on angular-cut crystals that are encrusted on to cropped blazers much like Spring Summer’s Navajo Beaded series. These are mainly reserved for editorial use, and reserved for top-end cliental including celebrities expected to be sported on, such Kanye West who is currently the new face of Balmain Spring Summer 2015 menswear campaign.

Overall the Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection has made a striking representation that once again underlined Olivier Rousteing’s ultra luxe successful contribution to the house as creative director since Spring Summer 2012. For looks wise may divide opinion but I certainly like it, it looks strong and masculine just like what Balmain Homme should be and even if it doesn’t appeal, you can’t deny that it has stacks of wardrobe and street presence. Particularly with the red accents setting on those metallic gold skate slip-on sneaker soles – a must have for any Balmaniac!

BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2015 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
Complete 27 Photographs in High Resolution

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Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 Menswear

12th January 2015

The forthcoming Paris Menswear Fashion Week Fall Winter 2015 is due a few weeks away, while Givenchy has recently released its latest lookbook for Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 in this month. Much like the previous Givenchy Pre-Fall 2014 lookbook, the new collection consist a combination highlight of both menswear and womenswear, in contrasted to the antecedent gender-specific Givenchy Pre-Spring 2014 menswear. For this upcoming Pre-Fall 2015 season, Riccardo Tisci showcases a close-fitted 10 menswear looks along with 26 womenswear, although the womenswear seems much more formidable.

The dramatic new direction of the Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 menswear collection is conceivably more upscale and distinctively lighter in range as compared to the previous pre-collection found in 2013 and 2014 that are predominantly inspired from streetwear culture. Despite this, there is no form of surprise to view such sudden transition, as the earlier Pre-Fall 2014 seeks similar relevance with the current Pre-Fall 2015 – the main principle is to subordinate print orientation through tailored focus formalwear. From monochromatic outwear topcoats, rain macs, wool-knit sweaters, and suiting options sported with continuation use of high-contrast band panelled detailing discovered from the Givenchy Fall Winter 2014 menswear pretty much sums up the current collection. The entire menswear collection features a leaner layering approach for a broader reach of wearability, a line-up of wardrobe essentials restyled through Tisci’s interpretation.

Materials wise exercised over the collection includes luxurious suede, wool, and generous black leather which played an evident role in characterizing each individual pieces. Contrast coloured patches are noticeably the new form of feature spotted on wool outwears, accompanied by double flap pocket styles distinct towards formal long coats and suits. While washed denims styles with biker ribbed panelling dressed contrast wool sleeves and imminent biker jeans flourish casualwear assortments. Completing every quintessential look with a pair of classic pointed chelsea boots or high-shine lace-ups. Checkout this season’s Givenchy Spring Summer 2015 Collection Wishlist.

High praises were mentioned on the new Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 menswear collection and all-around impressing noticeable significance, while others condemn the degradation on its latest offerings and question their faithful loyalty. Perhaps this is not a collection worthy for the die-hard consumers who were eagerly looking forward for a ground-breaking print motif, after all it has been long overdue. The only print motifs channelling from the menswear lookbook are the arbitrary ripped paper texture and grimy print effects found on the beige coats and sweater, divulging a short distinct footnote – ‘LO’ or ‘LLO’, a concept what seems to be a similarly adaption from Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby collaboration collage series in Fall Winter 2014.

THE GIVENCHY PRE-FALL 2015 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
10 Looks / High Resolution Photos (1366 × 2048 pixels)