It’s a story we all know too well, a collection that reaches an age and it gets the obligatory nip and tuck, in the hope that a fresher look will consecutively appeal to those buyers who are interested. The Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear seems to the case, a consistent streamlined collection that speaks toward its avid fans again, the usual college jackets, tartan plaid print shirts, stove-piped jeans and etcetera, but there was something different this season. Prior to the show release, Saint Laurent Twitter gave out a few hints of the upcoming menswear collection; it was called “Surf Sound”, an elaborative and dedicated contemporary Califonian surf music culture collection. One of many American inspired stories that curated by creative director Hedi Slimane has since he took the office at Los Angeles.
Surf Sound is an interesting mix of California flavored thrift shop fashion with an arty cool vintage appeal at a music scene, it is called a continuous effort to promote Slimane’s commercial and critical galvanization to the house of Saint Laurent, mind grunge style it is. Iconic looks were reference from Nirvana’s front man Kurt Cobain and Canadian musician Neil Young. The soundtrack of the show was exclusively composed by Swimmers, a band based in Oakland, Calirornia. The soundtrack called “Like Harry Dean Stanton” includes innervation song lines like “I wanna be 16…”. In the show interest itself, Hollywood male models Charlie Oldman and Dylan Brosnan strut the catwalk debut as their noble fathers, Gary Oldman and Pierce Brosnan watch them on from the front row.
The latest Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection translate an array of diversified surf culture looks, the only consistency here was substance. A classic Saint Laurent long tuxedo smoking jacket were retuned with a colourful Hawaiian Palm Tree sequinned lapel, eminent cropped leather jackets came out with distinguished micro studded trims and contrast red accents, while there was an abundance of mix tattered plaid western shirts with frayed-hem raw cuts – these were ideal essentials for the Saint Laurent enthusiast.
There were much more as the motif collection continues with jacquard embroidered floral prints, oversized military camo coats returns, daisy floral prints, contrast striped knitwear, animal prints on bomber jackets and scarfs, party confetti prints, and lastly polka dots. The first look was the strongest amongst all, featuring a multicolor and multiprint patchwork on a black leather zipper jacket that has a definitive meaning of concluding the entire surf sound collection in one single piece. Then there was the stove piped denim jeans, this time there were high-waisted and loose in fit offered in a blown-out destroyed knees variant. Even crisp white leather sneakers were made used as if it has gone through several years of hard wear – these were ironically a line of luxury-assembled duplicates of cheap items one could find in most Cali-thrift shop sale.
But replicating such looks at a fraction of a price point would miss the essence of Slimane’s influence, because nothing feeds in desirability like partaking in an emotional journey curated by an unequivocal sartorialist. The word “curator,” truly applies to Slimane who conjure an unprecedented vibe. The spirited youth he casts for models on the streets in California, the uncharted artists and musicians he discovers, and the garment he chooses to aggregate, all paints a picture we all know to well, but finds little appreciation to comprehend such cultures in a daily basis, these are the future archetype that he is trying to evoke in a faultless assembly.
The key items from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection are the colourful souvenir alike teddy varsity jackets, one of the cornerstone garments renowned by the house. The new teddy varsity jackets are portrayed in retro touches with luxurious couture embroidery and beading, similar towards the highly anticipated Saint Laurent Blood Luster Embroidered Teddy Varsity Jacket from Spring Summer 2014.
For aspiration young fans, buying Saint Laurent might be just a dream away but considering the more affordable accessories are probably the fundamental investment one could attain. The white plastic bug eyed sunglasses is a trademark of Cobain were mostly featured by the models in this season’s show. Some of them also had his dirty peroxide hair, though it’s probably the sunglasses that have the biggest pull for the well-heeled Saint Laurent customer. Additional accessories such as beanie knit hats, tucker caps, red knit socks, and leopard print cotton scarfs are key aesthetics for a Saint Laurent gratification.
SAINT LAURENT SPRING SUMMER 2016 MENSWEAR
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