Second Kulture

Runway

Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

28th June 2015

If you were one of the many fans of the old Givenchy’s religion theme, then you will be happy to hear there is an upcoming future collection along the way.

Givenchy’s menswear show in Paris for Spring Summer 2016 menswear was a pleaser, in many senses. It features the distinct iconography that many of the cult fans were looking forward to, mainly thought provoking and menacing prints. The latest collection shares significant fragments with its antecedent and much anticipated Givenchy Spring Summer 2013 Madonna menswear and the earlier pioneered Givenchy Fall Winter 2010 Altar menswear, both former collections that places religion at the limelight while connecting several elements with the label’s latest style direction — namely pinstripes that derived from the recent Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 menswear. Addition to this, was a whole new five pointed star monogram motif that incorporates the designer’s brand name embedded in a structural arrangement, it was a divine.

This season Riccardo Tisci revisits his religious bent, an iconography signature administered since the beginning of his career at Givenchy. The creative director opened the show with models and celebrities strutting the runway in a relentless place. Hefty religious references advocating Tisci’s Catholic roots and prison-like ensembles of the latest incarnation made up the menswear collection. Taking inspiration for this season was Jesus Christ, the central figure of Christianity was surrounded by barbed wire taken from the ‘Crown of Thorns’ which was induced across an array of looks. The religious iconography continued not limited to oversize prints but some were even plastered in pin-ups cross variants as though they were taken off a scrapbook. Mostly portraits looks were scattered in trademark colours of black, white and navy along with pinstriped on many imaginable garments.

Perhaps the most intriguing and questionable subject in the biblical Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear was the numbers 19520 in convict bold lettering over the Jesus imagery. While these numbers certainly do not appeal through first observation or conclude a direct interpretation even after Googling. A theory of its implication could be speculate by adding up the existing numbers which aggregates to number 35. By perchance, the significance could be correlated to one of the Bible notes for John 11:35 “Jesus Wept”, is the shortest verse in the Bible and one of the most emotional.

It’s not uncommon to see how designers have a tendency to weave womenswear pre-collections into menswear shows. Givenchy has been leading such trends as early in 2013 and it also shouldn’t be a surprise to find celebrities taking the latest collections onto the runway itself. Tisci handpicked some of his favorite girls to grace alongside the boys which has been hyped during the post event. Kendell Jenner, Joan Smalls, and Candice Swanepoel were in couture gowns adorned with feathery, petal, fringed, and lacey dress in a range of soft cool pastels colours, they were some of the odd contrast set against the religious prisoner theme. However, the most exciting celebrity modelling stage was when Naomi Campbell closed the show with nothing more than a chain-glittered blazer over a black skimpy bikini which made a memorable moment for the show.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

For aspirational cult fans, statement accessories are the way to go with the collection’s symbolic oversize key ring necklace featured dangling around the model’s necks. This distinctive jewellery represents a dramatic expression that is well-established with Tisci’s thought provoking style direction which may deliver the most value out of one’s investment.

For all one knows, the Givenchy Jesus Crown of Thorns Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt is perhaps set to be one of the most fast moving pieces when it hits the retail stores due to its large sheer presence print that gives off a menacing approach with the five pointed stars trademark element. Expected retail is around $1,300 much like the recent Givenchy Gypsophila Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt, nonetheless prices may fluctuate in the near future. The Givenchy Jesus Crown of Thorns Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt features the infamous Crown of Thorns detailing set against the edge of the polo’s silhouette, a cross reference from the ever-popular and still in demand Givenchy Shark & Mermaid Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt that has chain detailing as the earlier settlement.

In terms experimentation, the Givenchy Jesus Print Patched PVC Sweatshirt is an interesting option to explore. This unique sweatshirt is made out of a flexible PVC material replacing the traditional cotton fabric featuring Jesus imagery in random patches, but it simply feels out of depth and substandard compared to the sheer fabric overlay sweaters and t-shirts.
Mini cross lapel pins are a novelty feature amongst sharply tailored suits and coats that made up the building blocks for this Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection. While boxy cut silhouettes are at an abundance in pinstriped movements found particularly on short-sleeves cotton shirts and oversize shorts. Footwear wise, the designer has left us with a T-bar sandals and exposed cap-toe slits on casual leather shoes, personally I think they are really hideous as compared to what has been offered in the past. Lastly but not least, for those who can reach into deep pockets may be privilege to experience one of the most prominent pieces such as the Givenchy Pinstriped Chain Embellished Suits or outlined jackets and coats.

GIVENCHY SPRING SUMMER 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 61 LOOKS

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Runway

Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 Menswear

25th June 2015

Just one week ahead of unveiling Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear at Paris Fashion Week, Givenchy releases its Pre-Spring 2016 showcase in a traditional set of lookbook images. This time around, it seems as though the French fashion house has strategically set to launch its pre-collection menswear in-line with the womenswear resort collection, much like the antecedent Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 menswear showcase. Furthermore, most looks has been significantly reduced, there are only 9 looks in every pre-collection since Pre-Fall 2015. And if you compare it with the Givenchy Pre-Spring 2014 menswear collection which features a staggering 26 looks, that simply means only 1/3 of the entire collection is represented in advance.

The first half of Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 menswear is dominated by several traditional pinstripe elements in a full set of clothes ranging from shirts, ties, coats and suits, these belongs to the everyday classic wardrobe collection which may seem ideal for most men who are seeking a distinctive formal style. The powerful impressions represented in a small selection of linear monochromatic black, charcoal gray, and ivory white fabrics with complementary pinstripe colours derives in sharply tailored formalwear from the suiting culture of Italy where the creative designer was raised. For less formal occasions, Tisci crafted an army staple series in military green suiting featuring utilitarian pockets highlighted in darker contrast, paired with a mint green poplin shirt that has a khaki outlines which engages the necktie.

In the past collections, Tisci has been renowned to introduce feminism in experimental colours to bridge a balance in masculine distinction, we have seen baby blues, light pinks and mint greens are often exercise along with romantic motifs in particularly pre-spring and spring summer menswear collections. As such, the colour mint green is bound to return this Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016. The new Givenchy mint green native american carpet print sets out in a classic sweatshirt, columbian-fit polo t-shirt and a button-up knit skirt formerly introduced in Fall Winter 2015. First incepted from the Givenchy Spring Summer 2012 Birds of Paradise menswear, this singular colour palette has returned with an equally distinct print that exudes from the native american carpet motif procure from the current Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear, although my first impressions towards the graphic motif reminisce a jewel Tetris game as resulted from the predominant acid green inlays and jewel like embodiment.

As for every pre-collection, it goes without saying that Givenchy has planned an animal print in hope to foster the ever popular Rottweiler since Givenchy Fall Winter 2011 menswear. Therefore in this Pre-Spring 2016 season, a pair of roaring baboons under the trademark single star enclosure in a gray sweatshirt variant is subject to please cult fans who are looking for diversification. This particular print originated from the first Givenchy Star & Monkey Print Sleeveless T-Shirt, assembled along with a black sweatshirt variant that is yet to be made available along the Fall Winter 2015 season. While at the rugged front sports a set of denim archive offered in light blue wash with minor distressed throughout the fabrics including leather insertions patched on to collar and sleeves detailing. Lastly, the least exciting Givenchy Logo Print Destroyed Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt is bound to return in the following season which begs us to questions whether the designer is indicating a further uphold in the destroyed attributes amongst future styles.

Discern from the footwear corner is a pair of Givenchy Black Derby Lace-Up Leather Shoes with contrast white soles and in the causal end there is a very unusual piece of frankenstein creation. At first sight, the sneakers is what seems to be inspired from a pair of boat shoes. Innovated in its truly unique silhouette boast a low-top and high-top variant featuring metal contrast eyelids and lace ups for both, while high-tops variants gets an additional tasselled feature with an upper vamp similar to those found on a mountaineer boots. The rubber midsoles element is crafted with a razor-cut wave design and is perhaps the most distinct feature which shares similarities from Givenchy’s iconic Tyson sneaker.

Let’s discuss…

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Wishlist

Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 Wishlist

19th June 2015

As Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 and Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 is set upon us, the deliberation of Riccardo Tisci’s enthralled menswear collection for both seasons has echoed through a myriad of conversations ever since it was presented almost half a year ago. Much like every upcoming season, Givenchy has not only developed several diversified styles with an innovative appeal, but further continues to increase its inventory levels. This has resulted the brand in growing more confident through time after witnessing a high surge in demand since Fall Winter 2012, which has lead to rising inventories as part of the brand’s strategic expansion across the globe.

And in this season there seems to be no short of it, although I must divulge that the ever-popular Givenchy Rottweiler Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt for Pre-Fall 2015 has almost been completely sold out by the time I have written this. Just by taking a glance in detail over both pre and main collections offered from Luisa Via Roma in the most recent pre-order release, one could simply be overwhelm or distress from the amount of choices largely available in an array of motifs and styles, which may or may not be a good thing.

The infamous Rottweiler might be almost half a decade old but its menacing presence has aged quite gracefully, and in the latest Pre-Fall 2015 collection there’s a new detailed variant in embroidery that highlights every bit of the old traditional print. Available in two distinct fits, Cuban and Columbian, the Cuban-Fit sells out at a heartbeat with only large remaining sizes, and these elements have always set the initial impression in resurging a particular design. Speaking of resurgence, I was lucky enough to have picked up the Givenchy Black Stars & Beads Appliqué Shirt earlier from L’Inde le Palais many thanks to a Singaporean reader here who had informed me that they had it available for pre-order. It made me think twice before I made the official checkout just under a split second, since it was introduced back in Givenchy Fall Winter 2012 menswear collection, it belong to a series that is as ancient in the fashion universe as it sounds. The most fascinating history of this shirt is that there weren’t any existing owners selling them off to the pre-owned market. I am very glad that I have bought it, with the additional 10% off for new customers on top of the non-EU taxed pricing, it would be very difficult to resist not getting one especially when there were only 3 sizes available and limited to 1 per size.

That said, the thing that really turns heads for this season is the spooky Givenchy Black Skull Print T-Shirt, I would prefer the skulls at the lower waist than the neckline alternative. Indeed this is a top that has the appearance that will question opinions and even scare small children, it has a dark iconic presence that is peculiar towards Tisci’s legacy but its anything but subtle, instead it is unashamedly wicked with its imposing stacks of skull heads and seems to fit the “cursed objet d’art” in an ideal context just by observing its understated credentials. For a much darker approach, I would pick the Givenchy Skull Print Long Poplin Shirt that features an enlarged reverse skull print and exaggerated length unique to this season, lining the body with an elongated sense of structure.

Perhaps the most distinguish print that is currently attainable and should be seriously considered is the Givenchy Star & Monkey Print Sleeveless T-Shirt. During its initial inception, minor snippets of the mystery print were showcased across the runway and has since undergone substantial speculation, presuming it being the next “Rottweiler” replacement. The graphic print that features two monkey’s teeth’s amulet below a single star coding was later unveiled by Riccardo Tisci himself, in a sweatshirt variant – yet to be released later in the season. While its similar sibling, the Givenchy Rooster & Monkey Voodoo Print Sleeveless T-Shirt invokes a vector silhouette which houses an enraged monkey collaged in an inescapable voodoo vibe leaves no compromises in a distinct style appeal intrinsic to the Givenchy label. At the moment, these sleeveless printed t-shirts are quite well received, especially the Givenchy Rooster & Monkey Voodoo Print Sleeveless T-Shirt which is almost sold out to those who are eager to experiment the latest street-edge style.

The Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear’s main print is the Native American Carpet motif in striking Tuscan colourway represented in a small proportion of tailored selection. The Native American Carpet is perhaps one of the most distinct hallmark motif amongst the collection, derived from an exclusive expression recollected from the designer’s discoveries of subcultures, the motif accentuates through a powerful silhouettes in tailored wool jackets, coats, shirts, and pairing trousers, occasionally offered in smattering sequins only for those who are able to dig deep into their wallet’s wildest fantasies. And for this season I wouldn’t miss getting the Givenchy Native American Carpet Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt as part of my seasonal collection, unlike the past season where I’ve missed out in attaining the main Givenchy Black Gypsophila Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt because of some Instagram resell who could not deliver one after making the payment, this serves as a lesson to only trust and purchase from reputable retailers.

In terms of accessories and footwear, this season sees an abundance of high-end leather wear with metal embellished pieces taking the spotlight. From leather pouches, to all-rounded studded belts, and distinct footwear pieces. If given a single choice, I would go for the Givenchy Brown & Black Metal & Swarovski Crystal Studded Swiss Sandals, this fancy footwork emphasizes aggressive detailing with contrast leather reinforcements that is just a joy to look at. For those who are more conservative can opt for the modern interpreted Givenchy 45mm Black Rottweiler Chain-Detail Lace-Up Leather Shoes. The new footwear has been altered in proportion and is quite substantially improved over its predecessor to fit the contemporary market, additional to this it is also available in a mid-cut boots variant at matching prices to compare. These are perhaps one of the most unmistakable footwear reminisce to the Givenchy Fall Winter 2011 menswear collection. Back then only a handful of people were able to afford the renowned quintessential knee-high boots that were taken right off the runway which was produced limited in production and availability was scare to selective retailers.

What was your best pick in Luisa Via Roma’s Givenchy collection?

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GIVENCHY BLACK ROOSTER & MONKEY VOODOO PRINT SLEEVELESS T-SHIRT
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News

Milan/Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2016 Schedule

12th June 2015

Finale at Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 men’s fashion show, June 2014

SAVE THE DATE — Time flies through a fruitful season and here we are after a quick lunge from the outgoing Spring Summer 2015 season. As now we are fast approaching Pre-Fall 2015 and Fall Winter 2015, with multiple retailers and designers already begun taking pre-orders since a month ago, while L’inde Le Palais and Antonioli took lead following renowned global luxury retailer Luisa Via Roma. Consequently proceeding towards Spring Summer 2015 sale at selected regions SSENSE that has kicked off as early as third week of the month in May.

The Milan and Paris Fashion Week is one of the most prominent anticipated events in Italy’s and France’s bi-annual fashion calender. Organised by the National Chamber for Italian Fashion and Federation Francaise de la Couture from 19 till 28 June 2015 in respective countries, with almost 100 participating designers around the world in various fashion categories from luxury to new talents promises endless excitements. Discover the latest schedule below and don’t forget to save the date! You can now watch it live at NOWFASHION.com – *last updated on 12 June 2015.

MILAN FASHION WEEK MENS SPRING SUMMER 2016 SCHEDULE

Source: Architectural Models of World’s Famous Landmarks (Vol.1): Milan Cathedral – Paper Model of Milan Cathedral, Italy

FRIDAY, 19 JUNE 2015
10:00 pm – Dirk Bikkembergs

SATURDAY, 20 JUNE 2015
9:30 am – Corneliani
10:30 am – Ermenegildo Zegna
11:30 am – Emporio Armani
12:30 pm – Costume National
3:00 pm Andrea Pompilio
4:00 pm – Jil Sander
5:00 pm – Les Hommes
6:00 pm – Marni
7:00 pm – Neil Barrett
8:00 pm – Versace
9:00 pm – Philipp Plein

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Wishlist

Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 Wishlist

7th June 2015

The Saint Laurent menswear has always been if not, continuously delivering pure luxury that speaks of craftsmanship and authenticity in the leading designer market. For the upcoming Fall Winter 2015, Saint Laurent men’s collection entitles “Paris Sessions” has undergone a creative makeover to further aid its perpetual appeal to those that appreciates and buys these success statements.

Hedi Slimane’s Paris Sessions inspirits a fresh generation of young Parisian musicians who constitutes to be the next Saint Laurent man, or boy. The latest homage collection consist an array of what seems to be ‘statement wardrobe essentials’ with little extreme pieces to spare, besides the highly pretentious hot pink mink fur coat. This is probably the most aggressive collection at Saint Laurent by Slimane so far, the signature punk rock demeanour has an remarkable appeal with relentless quality offered by the house. The outfits presented at Luisa Via Roma’s Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 season has a subtle approach yet equally intriguingly in style, it’s the type of beauty you could see and appreciate from a distance or even up closed in details.

There is something significant of that in Slimane, where creating less equals more, provided the designer produces the right pieces which could potentially translate an extended repetition for the wearer – such as the infamous skinny denim jeans, tartan plaid wool shirts and not to forget the notable Saint Laurent FW13 Teddy Varsity Jacket which all falls into this category. Slimane certainly has a talent of taking all the good quality bits of what’s gone in the past and re-proposing them as new ideas for now, it makes sense for any younger man in reality or spirit to invest in Saint Laurent because he’s more than likely to still be wearing them after a few seasons, possibly even in 5 years’ time. With Hedi Slimane, it hard to fault with most of his creations, the only significant challenge one face is either you are a believer in his vision or you are not.

There were a handful of runway looks at Luisa Via Roma’s new Fall Winter 2015 pre-order collection to choose from, every single Saint Laurent piece felt like building blocks we are all supposed to own, although most might consider them to be ‘fashion pieces’ that eventually would fade after a season or two. Unlike the other designers, Slimane certainly knows how to squeeze out the most vibrant potential from the decadent fashion ages, turning great bits of design into ultimate classics, something that goes with almost everything else without having the much thought required.

This season’s future statement classics pieces on my list that everyone should particular invest to start with is the Saint Laurent Swarovski Viscose Velvet Bomber Jacket, based on the teddy varsity jacket, this velvet bomber features rows of Swarovski crystals that forms a symmetrical fan-shaped shells of scallops – makes a perfect piece for a hot night out. I would also consider the a bold out monochrome Saint Laurent Striped Wool Sweater and Saint Laurent Striped Shetland Wool Scarf priced at an affordable $350 – these essential pieces accentuate the natural SL style. On Fridays, I would love to be dressed in a killer looking Saint Laurent Pinstriped Wool Suit to take on the office – yes I suggest you need to get them in one set not separate pieces to match. A fancy Saint Laurent Micro Confetti Print Light Viscose Twill Shirt that has evolved from its predecessor FW14 collection, and last but not least – really tight skinny denims in the case of a 5 zipper pocket feature on the Saint Laurent 15cm Black Zipper Stretch Denim Jeans. These styles are a few examples that are particular convincing for great casual classics with a fashion edge that are timeless, among the simple black colour palette, seductive motifs, and penchant for sequins made a prominent splash. From boys and men – will want it all.

Top down, the Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection wasn’t anything that we have not seen before but it didn’t matter, because every bit and extra detailing enclosed on repeated styles still felt as fresh and enthralling as it claimed to be. It is a beautiful collection with a piece of history that plans to move you even after many years. Although the basic silhouette has been around for a decade now since Slimane started from Dior Homme, and even despite the hefty price tag circling in four figures on average will sell like hot cakes. So better reserve yours now at Luisa Via Roma, especially the pieces that aspires you the most won’t be hanging too long.

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Wishlist

Balmain Fall Winter 2015 Wishlist

2nd June 2015

It is hard to believe that Balmain Homme has just been around since Fall Winter 2009 and still growing strong. As Balmain remains the world’s leading luxury designer with sales reaching 30 million euros in growth and 20% increase in sales per annum, the young creative director Olivier Rousteing has certainly contributed a substantial success to the Parisian powerhouse, so much so that he constantly provides unparalleled designs with newer collections exceeding expectations. Watch ‘Inside Fashion’ interview, BoF’s Imran Amed sits down with Olivier Rousteing and Emmanuel Diemoz to discuss the rise of Balmain and its digital revolution.

Head turning, it is such an overused phrase isn’t it when it comes to describing a distinctive collection, the Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear translates Rousteing’s unique progression in his forth ‘Autome Hiver’ establishment. In this season the designer pursuits the new generation of aristocracy by offering an array of fluidity and elegant line-ups while retaining signature aesthetics balanced from the house’s traditions. Luxury and opulence are key features embedded in the new Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection and after a thorough examination in Luisa Via Roma’s Balmain Fall Winter 2015 men’s pre-order collection, it is definitely not short-lived. Considering the results of desirability from certain pieces such as the Balmain Black Embroidered Cuffs Wool Gabardine Jacket and Balmain Black & Gold Velcro Suede Leather Sneaker yields irresistible aesthetics, all while delivering true luxury.

The eagle eyed amongst you might notice that the latest Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear resembles fragments of a few predecessor collections, more notably the Balmain Fall Winter 2012 men’s “Russian Imperial Army” and the Balmain Fall Winter 2013 men’s Asian-Eastern thematic. Rousteing took some of the best attributes to render the current aristocracy collection. The difference given is a series of cosmetic changes in the redesigned bomber fur jacket – an ultimate staple for every winter season, military influenced satin-lapel blazer, geometry panelled biker denims in key washes and leather variants, including a diversified collection of his signature sarouel and sweatpants. These changes might sound small but it actually gives this collection an innovative modern appearance, particularly in details administered.

Fortunately, the notion underpinning the latest Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear is far from main stream at least from now, which means those who are eager to experience it need to be prepared to pay a substantial premium. But the good news is it is not some far-fetched laboratory experiment, it is a comprehensive collection that has been given a series of updated cosmetic changes on both classic and seasonal pieces, yet it still feels every bit as special and true to the hallmarks of the Parisian house as represented. Even though most of the styles has been repeated or eventually turned classic for this season, there are an abundance of new biker denims and sweatpants that comes with features like ribbed leather inserts, double-zippers, along with distressed and destroyed characteristics, so it’s very well diversified. Speaking of which, the Balmain Blue Knee-Destroyed Denim Biker Jeans will definitely be a sell out much like it’s earlier sibling in a lighter blue variant from Spring Summer 2015.

The modern silhouette has made this generation of Balmain Homme remained iconic without sacrificing any presence, the bold panelling bits with contrast materials including the thick military buttons and shimmery embellished zippers certainly do a lot to underline that presence. And that is saying something, because in styling terms, the Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection is a show stopper that proves irresistible, some unique pieces that you want is the best attributes that Balmain has to offer, and if money is not a variable in our decision then you can’t go wrong with the waxed coated pieces, unless you find yourself struggling to dress in one – most prominently the Balmain Dark Green Washed Zipped Cotton Biker Jacket, pairing it with the complementary Balmain 16.5cm Dark Green Coated Nappa Leather Biker Trousers, or the restored Balmain 17cm Black Waxed Coated Denim Biker Panelled Jeans which was last seen in Balmain Spring Summer 2012 mens, also known as Rousteing’s very first Balmain Homme collection.

While the overall Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection is evocative to say the least, some of the minor details like the richly embroidered gold crest and oversized lion patch are traditional techniques evolved from the well-known classic couture spirit, these distinctive characteristics are in congress as part of the permanent feature in Balmain Homme but the result is always fascinating, always thought provoking. And while it looks spectacularly presented, the collection only truly comes to life when worn with the right pieces. However these are premium value pieces at a staggering prices, one would have to evaluate with deep pockets to truly experience, there is a lot of personal preference there as well. Luckily for many of us this is hardly a decision to lose sleep over as the ‘entry-level’ Balmain embroidered pieces costs at least $1,115 – $5,270 depending on your selection.

Finally there is also the question of price. The latest Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection works out to be more upmarket, shifting it a cut above the competition with a much higher price point than the earlier predecessor collections, but it also has much more interesting and distinctive yet well balanced pieces than the ones you will find in the past, which may or may not be a good thing depending on your point of view. As the new collection goes, I say it is a successful one and it should send the Balmain in a good stead until that newer generation arrive till next year. Pre-order your Balmain Fall Winter 2015 now at Luisa Via Roma, delivers no later by 30th September 2015. Or enjoy complimentary shipping worldwide with current Spring Summer 2015 end of season sale.

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