Review

Givenchy Fall Winter 2013 Menswear Prints Analysis

5th August 2013
Taking a deeper look into the Givenchy Fall Winter 2013 menswear print design collection that has always been discussed as a subject of a grey area. It is like blue cheese, it has a distinctive flavour that only caters towards certain taste buds. There are several elements that has made up this unique thematic. For this season, Riccardo Tisci revisits his obsessions with America, Greek Neoclassicism, bondage sexuality and sport, infused with a Latin attitude and Robert Mapplethorpe’s black and white iconography.

The collection is deeply rooted in a binary palette studded with various hues of grey. It has a mix of high couture elegance which empowers the overall mood inspired by the black and white imagery. The details demonstrated are an innovative technique dedicated towards intricate experimental designs. Body and sexuality reference drives the bold prints in contrast shiny and matte textures collage on leather patches, cotton and tweeted knitwear.

GIVENCHY SCULPTURE RUBBER PRINT

Neoclassicism cross with Mapplethorpe iconography collage art print. Features a photographed sculpture of a Greek God with a triangulate shinny rubber patch, framed within a cut out textured collage. Available in scarf print, white or black cotton columbian-fit oversize t-shirt, and regular-fit white shirt. In my opinion, I think this is the main course print design for the Givenchy Fall Winter 2013 menswear. Although the imagery isn’t as powerful enough to convey it’s distinctiveness from the rest. Choose the black Givenchy Black Sculpture Rubber Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt, the dark background highlights the print design much further when compared to the white variation.

Click click to read much more information of the Givenchy Fall Winter 2013 Prints…

GIVENCHY NAKED MAN FLORAL PRINT

Robbert Mapplethorpe infused with floral vector art and photography collage. Key features a distinctive print naked male photograph illustrated with floral graphic and photo detailing, framed in a rectangular shape with an abstract motif design. Available in scarf print, black sweatshirts, silk organza and shirts. This is one of my favorite technical print, It has a good balance in general nature, a concealed naked photographed dressed in its relevance floral characteristics that will later drive the following Pre-Spring 2014 collection. However the price is pretty steep here for such a small printed patch on sweatshirt, it may be questionable whether the value of this particular design might be noticeably unique. The black naked man floral print shirt is selling out the fastest on LuisaViaRoma, I think this is the most popular printed shirt out of the entire Fall Winter 2013 series. 
GIVENCHY SKULL BASEBALL PRINT

The ultimate graphic contour that lies in the grey area, infused with several directions – an x-rayed skull highlighted with an American baseball illustration surrounded with cancer cloud details. A very eccentric piece that I yet have to understand behind it’s hidden meaning. The Givenchy skull baseball print is also Riccardo Tisci’s preferable piece, spotted him photographed wear it in one of the fashion editorial magazines. The runway version has a silk organza blend with cotton, it is not quite the same when compared with the commercial piece. Available in scarf print, cotton fleece sweatshirt and oversized t-shirt. The Givenchy Skull Baseball Print Cotton Fleece Sweatshirt sells out the fastest on LusiaViaRoma and other websites, it is worth considering purchasing it when compared with other binary sweatshirts offered this season.

Givenchy Skull Baseball Print Cotton Fleece Sweatshirt – $765
GIVENCHY 17 SCULPTURE AMERIKA PRINT

A simple representation of the Neoclassicism sculpture art, photographed and collage with honeycomb vector art on the left frame including the Tisci’s signature ’17’ number and Imperial Japanese Navy target-logo. While the right frame displays a photo-manipulated art with the ‘AMERIKA’ bold characters across the sculpture’s face. The Givenchy 17 Sculpture Amerika Print is available in scarf print and a black or grey coloured cuban-fit t-shirt, it is pretty exclusive for such a basic design that has only been printed on two types. Price is set slightly higher in the marketplace than the average Givenchy Fall Winter 2013 t-shirts. I felt it is not worth it, as the print design doesn’t stand out among the other designs, when in comparison with the bondage print and the sculpture rubber print, this design feels less inspirational.
Givenchy Black 17 Sculpture Amerika Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt – $525
GIVENCHY BONDAGE STAR PRINT

Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe black and white imagery celebrating the body and sexuality at it’s best. This is the most attractive binary prints featuring a women in bondage all tied up in an obscene position, rendering a whole new level of intensity – the inspiration here is strong, main subject is framed in bold black and white with a large key star and triangle design. Available in two cuban-fit t-shirt and a sleeveless rubber print wool knit. The slim-fit t-shirt features an additional rear technical floral photography print. If I had only one choice to choose a Givenchy Cuban-Fit T-Shirt for this Fall Winter 2013 season, this will be the one in grey. It’s distinctiveness among the rest are highlighted with the front and rear prints that is often not featured in this season’s cuban-fit offerings, the unique placement of the rear-right patch print is an innovative demonstration of creativity which has made this masterpiece one of my personal favorites. Must have!

GIVENCHY NAKED WOMEN PRINT

A milimistic representation of bondage sex blend with Mapplethorpe technique and Neoclassicism sculpture art. The double print, front and rear feature is known to be the best grey coloured sweatshirt sellout for this season. The print depicts a naked women in an abnormal pose tied up with her face covered, the rear print feature is only available on a sweatshirt at an additional cost. There are four variations available in this design, the oversized t-shirt with front print feature only, sweatshirt with front print, sweatshirt with front and rear print and sleeveless vest with front and rear print. I would suggest to get the Givenchy front and rear Naked Women print sweatshirt as it completes the ultimate visual intensity, never settle for anything less than a half hearted print representation when paying for top dollar, though I must warn you that the rear print of the lower body might be disturbing towards certain cultures even though it is censored. *F&R – Front and rear print.

To be continued…

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  • Anonymous

    Givenchy, always ahead and distinguished from all other brands in their prints.
    Even none is trying to compete with them. Simply they master it.
    In love with all the prints in the above post.
    Looking forward to check out the rest soon.

    • There are lots of small time competitors, like Pyrex and KTZ. Dolce & Gabbana also follows closely with Givenchy's collection, they have their own 'Madonna'. Prints are getting popular, I guess luxury fashion consumers are seeking for uniqueness and identity. Tisci is an artist, his works are brilliant and makes people think about what he does. Especially these eccentric prints that has so much inspiration behind them. :)

    • Anonymous

      I love KTZ pieces, really interesting. But as for Pyrex i am not sure where i can view their collection and could not find any online store selling them.
      I believe as prints are concerned Tisci is the master. I love Dolce & Gabbana too, but the pieces they make specially in the runway are hard to mix them with other brands. The total look they produce looks at its best on the runway.

    • Runway is always like this. It requires a lot of thought to imagine what pieces will go well which what particular type of clothing and shoes. It doesn't withstand repetition, so you have to choose carefully. :/

  • Anonymous

    Apart from his talent, I like the fabric of Givenchy's T-shirt very much, so soft and comfortable like my 2nd skin… haha, and still in good shape after wash, I did pay another brand's T-shirt even for a higher price but I like Givenchy the most still…
    Besides, I am used to wear relaxed or tight fit of 1 T-shirt for all brands, but Givenchy makes me totally change to be in love with their oversized one…

    • Givenchy makes good oversize print t-shirts. Other then them, if you like oversize there is raf simons, wooyoungmi, juun.j etc… but they are not as unique as Givenchy.

    • Anonymous

      My opinion is RS long but not big, dont like woo…, jj is good but not very much into fabric … ro gets some quite nice this season, check LN-CC…

  • Anonymous

    Great post, but I would like to mention my 2 cents as I was a freelancing assistant for this project.

    "Guys, chill out. Tisci doesn't do shit apart from stroke his chin when we bring out the work and ideas on the artboards, he is too busy either on Grinder or in constant contact with the PR teams. You people have no idea who does the work in here. So spare the comparison of his 'artistic' genius to Latin themes and so forth. He's NOT DOING ANY OF THIS WORK!!"

    • It always happens in the business environment. I'm pretty sure he has to approve these designs by signing off.

    • Anonymous

      No wonder why the rumor says Tisci asked for better pay, the boss said no… haha
      Anyway, I believe it but it also happens to other big fashion houses, if success, glory goes to the brand and creative director only, "no one" mentions about the support teams like design team …

    • Anonymous

      Maurice, I think what the poster above meant was that the "brilliant/genius" prints and designs are actually not what or where you think it came from. Signing off and designing it is 2 different things.

      Coming to the RTW, whatever Givenchy produce, good or bad, people will find "some" way to like it because it is skewing more towards owning "it" to portray luxury. Nice intel/insight from the freelance assistant.

    • Anonymous

      It's "Grindr"….you should look it up. Sucks working for bosses who are not working but gets all the credit. I can tell there would be some discontent there.

    • I'm pretty sure Riccardo Tisci is the creative director for a reason. He has probably went through a lot of experience therefore everyone believe in his decision. Business will always be business.

      The famous artist like Murakami doesn't work in his studio at New York, his staff will make everything happen following a brief sheet from the client. Murakami oversees the project and will only sign off to approve completion when he believes it is what he likes. He won't do every single design the client request as it would be too labour intensive and costly.

      Same story goes here in Givenchy and I believe maybe in every single brand, it is the same situation. I work under a director too and give her tons of ideas, she takes my ideas and improvise them. The end results is hers, she gets all the credit while I get paid a salary. It's a cruel world.

    • Anonymous

      I think you are reading too much into the collection whilst Tisci is checking his Grindr and could not care less. 😉 It's good marketing…all started from Kanye West and the PR. And also this explains the lazy recycle/patching of prints in the collections of late in the pre-collections. Two seasons later and they are still using the same shark, dog and minotaur prints?!?! Probably because Tisci is not giving input and the team has to spit something out whatever it is.

    • It's not Tisci's work to direct them to remake the prints. It is the sales and marketing department, it's all about business and making money to sustain the company's growth. They request the design team to do so with Tisci's approval, since there are so many people still demanding for old prints. Givenchy is not able to reproduce the same 1 to 1 prints from the past season, this will upset their loyal customers, therefore the only choice is to do some photo manipulation and collage.

      Either way it is a unique opportunity to make some sales, if you were the CEO of Givenchy, I am sure you will direct an order to do so if you have discovered that there is an entirely new market out there demanding for such a product.

    • Anonymous

      Ask them to have a look at the spring summer 14 collection.
      It is totally different.
      Go check Dolce and Gabbana they keep on sticking to the flowery patterns.
      There is no evidence to all the above said.
      At the end the credit has to go to him and we can not ignore his talent by trashing him because he refreshes his Grindr list. It is his personal life and who are we to judge him based on his sexual orientation. Wake up please.

    • I'm not sure what are you talking about here. What has this got to do with Dolce & Gabbana and Riccardo Tisci's personal life? We are discussing about how Givenchy's business strategy and their design team. It has nothing to do with what you have just argued?

    • Anonymous

      Grindr is a gay social network and the guy who commented above insisted that Tisi is not designing the Givenchy runway pieces because he is always busy on his Grindr.
      He repeated the word Grindr more than four times.
      I asked him to check the SS 2014 collection (runway), it is something different, creative,and absolutely unique.

    • Anonymous

      I think the posts above are made by different people if you read it carefully, not the same person.

      Maurice, notwithstanding the business aspect, playing around with the same prints irregardless whether it is not 1 to 1 is already upsetting. Paying $$$$$ for a print and continue to see it being used and improved is good enough to upset the customers/me. I did not pay USD800 for a "T-shirt" and see it being repeated over and over again in another form. Since Tisci is the creative director, and like you said he approves things, so he calls the shots on reusing items (which I think he should put his foot down and reject) and being the creative director, he should create not reuse.

      The dogs, apache, minotaur, shark, Madonna are showing up all over the place, now in the women's collection and in different colours and already 2 to 3 seasons behind. You don't pay a easily produced high profit margin T-shirt/sweater and see it again and again and again. It may be business but it is not good business.

    • True, sadly to say this is Givenchy's uses diffusion of innovations. One is the runway stuff which are totally new for the pure enthusiast, the early adopters. While, the last phase comes the mixed past season prints in all forms for the laggards.

      I guess Givenchy's logic is that when a customer is likely to result buying runway, the customer would probably not be bothered about past season prints since 'he is moving on' to the newer collection.

    • Anonymous

      At the end we are buying what is available online. Not all their runway collection pieces are out for purchase and this is the case with all other designers.
      Balmain keeps on repeating the same biker jeans and hoodies every season and the people keeps on buying them.
      But what is nice about Givenchy is that you see people keep on wearing pieces from previous collections and you keep looking at them with the same passion and appreciation.
      Maybe this repetition is intended to help new customers grap old popular pieces by blending them in new themes.
      Any other tees out now that are that catchy and worth buying them (i mean from other designer). if yes please share them with us.

    • So far Valentino has a nice classy collection for the Fall Winter 2013 men's

      http://bit.ly/14DNola

      http://bit.ly/16G4Vru

      I like the camo polos, plaid print sweaters, they look timeless. But it is pretty expensive…

      Another t-shirt print that is popular now is the Kenzo Jungle Fever Tiger print. It's everywhere, and very reasonable for its price. Value for money.

      http://bit.ly/1cHCdN8

      As for wild prints, Alexander McQueen, Paul Smith, Juun.J to name a few along with some close imitated copies like Pyrex, or KTZ which I urge everyone to stay away.

    • Anonymous

      Love the Valentino range this season, a camo is always a timeless classic. But they do right, so classy and elegant plus wearable.
      May i ask you to elaborate more on the KTZ issue.
      Looking for an answer on this point especially and what do you have against the brand.

  • Anonymous

    Off topic here. Can you please advise how Giuseppe Zanotti high top sneakers fit. True to size? Tks.

  • Anonymous

    Maurice, do u think they will release something similar to the red fighter tee this fw collection?

    • Dont think so. Maybe in Spring Summer 2014

    • Anonymous

      Hope so.
      Tx

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