Runway

Balmain Fall Winter 2015 Menswear

23rd January 2015

‘Automne Hiver’ in French is where Parisian designer Balmain really excels in its evolutionary offerings – house appointed creative designer Olivier Rousteing produced a personal #balmainarmy collection that best describe the spirit of his generation and style comfortable to be called his own. He titled, dedicated, and pursuit the new aristocracy, underlying every inch of classic and elegance at the latest Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection.

The Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection feels tremendously luxurious, it is known to accentuate from all the fashion capitals of the world, by what Rousteing predicts as the current generation of artistocrats would wear during an evening night out. The designer focuses in referencing to a creative mix of classic tailored pieces with fluid styling blend in with contemporary hip-hop as blown up to oversized proportions pants and coat dominates the silhouette – a unique upmarket appeal that seeks a hefty price tag to match. Just by observing the richness of the collection oozes a symphony of detailed extravagance and sets off a distinct grandeur.

“It’s my royal army” said Rousteing in the show notes for the collection, as a troop of models marched into the 18th century gilded establishment of Hôtel d’Évreux mansion during the official catwalk presentation day. Black cashmere beanies and hints of military dress permitted every aspect of his menswear presentation. The designer has modulate on Balmain’s Spring Summer 2015 striped sports and race references which consist an abundance of casual jersey and knitwear, as the near future direction dwells across a diverse and comprehensive men in detailed regiment braiding.

Balmain’s proposed gold and red contrast embroidered lion crest became the opulence emblem feature of the Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection. It appeared from a variety of outwear, from royal velvet satin trimmed smoking cropped blazers to racoon fur hooded padded down bombers, quilted biker leathers, college varsity jackets, bathrobe long coats and even full-on beaver fur peacoats were not exempt from this feature.

Everything here is exquisite as seen because of the high levels of materials used inevitably played a vital role in signature looks. “For fall, I turned to more ‘regal’ fabrics, including rich velvets, silks and cashmere, but I’ve worked to maintain that same easy vibe, in part by relying on over-sized and relaxed cuts.” as declared by the designer. The main anchor series of the collection emphasis on angular-cut crystals that are encrusted on to cropped blazers much like Spring Summer’s Navajo Beaded series. These are mainly reserved for editorial use, and reserved for top-end cliental including celebrities expected to be sported on, such Kanye West who is currently the new face of Balmain Spring Summer 2015 menswear campaign.

Overall the Balmain Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection has made a striking representation that once again underlined Olivier Rousteing’s ultra luxe successful contribution to the house as creative director since Spring Summer 2012. For looks wise may divide opinion but I certainly like it, it looks strong and masculine just like what Balmain Homme should be and even if it doesn’t appeal, you can’t deny that it has stacks of wardrobe and street presence. Particularly with the red accents setting on those metallic gold skate slip-on sneaker soles – a must have for any Balmaniac!

BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2015 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
Complete 27 Photographs in High Resolution

ALSO ON SECOND KULTURE:

Recent Post: Balmain Spring Summer 2015 “Army of Lovers” Menswear Campaign

Current Wishlist: Balmain Spring Summer 2015 Collection Wishlist

Previous Collection: Balmain Spring Summer 2015 Menswear Collection

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  • Anonymous

    I love the complete collection.
    It's bold. It`s classic. it's luxurious. it's paris!
    I can feel the Balmain DNA (again). Well done.

    • Yes, it feels tremendously luxurious. I love this theme, perfect for Balmain unlike the current SS15 which lacks a lot of house DNA. Can't wait for the collection to hit the stores…

  • Anonymous

    Wonderful! – But not for everyone ….

    • I agree, it isn't for everyone. Most may feel that this is too exuberant for their lifestyle. But I like it a lot, I think it reflect what I would want for fall winter.

  • Anonymous

    I don't like SS 15 collection, but this is even worse. bye bye balmain…

    • SS15 is not good, but I can't agree with you that FW15 is worst. This collection is as good as FW14, except for the large ostentatious embroidered badges which sort for ruins the outfits in some way.. :/

  • I don't like SS15 collection, but this is even worse. bye bye balmain

  • Anonymous

    yo Maurice thanks for updates…
    very nice collection, very class!!
    untill those big patch!
    love those shoes…

    • Glad you liked it as much as I did. Yes, those big embroidered badges has flawed most of the looks. I don't understand why Olivier Rousteing has to make them so big? :S

  • Anonymous

    I can see rather similar pieces to Givenchy. The collection didn't really speak to me. Maybe it's the styling. But looking at the individual pieces, yes there are a few pieces that look classic and very wearable. However, I'm not sure about the rest of the collection, beyond just having good editorial appeal. He (Oliver) mentions he is designing for his generation but I doubt anyone his age dresses like that. I don't see Balmain. All I see is him designing for the Kanyes and Kardashians of the world.

    • He is referring to what would the "new aristocracy" would wear in the current future. The aristocrats are trendsetter from major fashion influenced cities like Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Shanghai, Hong Kong and etcetera.

      I believe his concepts works in reality. They is a niche market that appeals to upper class men who are willing to splurge a fortunate over such collection as it reflects their daily lifestyle. This collection is market as high-end luxury, you can see the materials used here that are not commonly worn in daily basis.

      When he mentioned "classic", it is just a reference to the silhouettes. By incorporating a luxurious theme on classic pieces through Balmain's DNA. The classic he refers to is very personal, he can't produce pieces as classic from Brioni or Loro Piana because it doesn't cater to Balmain consumers.

      Overall I think this will be a very successful, and definitely will entice any Balmain fanatics.

  • Better as SS'15 but not a fan.

    • But why? I can forsee that it is very wearable, the jackets are awesome and I love the embroidered detailings.. so Balmain. Not taking the bathrobes into consideration 😀

  • Anonymous

    It's very 90's, like SS15 is very 70's sport. Unfortunately, neither is bringing anything revolutionary to the period, it's more just about revival – which makes both collections sound more like Karaoke then Original Renditions, if you would. The other part is that Givenchy and Lanvin have both tried to take the 90's over fit look to their men's collections which very little success. You'll find most of peices in the 70% off bin by end of season.

    • I have to agree with you, getting men to dress is loose silhouettes and baggy 30cm trousers is a tough challenge. Majority would not be able to accept these outfits as skinny fits endorsed by Saint Laurent will continue to dominate the market trend, maybe until late 10's.

      But I guess its all about the concept, and I felt it is very well executed as compared to the past seasons. Forgive me for being biased, but Balmain's fall winter has never failed to surprise me… although its not wearable in my country due to the weather. :(

  • Anonymous

    I only like Balmain's winter collections and this is my favourite one so far, can't wait to see what sneakers this collection has!

    • The Balmain Velvet Tassel Slip On Skate Sneaker with golden soles is a must have! I think it will good with my satin tux from the same designer.

      As for high-top sneakers, will make a sneak peek of the collection next month.

  • Anonymous
    • If I were you, I would go for the rich sea blue biker.

      http://bit.ly/1xWkurR

      As this is unique to Spring Summer 2015. You dont see them making these very often, I would forgo the light blue and opt for a washed grey.

    • Anonymous

      thanks, i was thinking about that too , the choice is very hard since i have the new black wax and http://www.farfetch.com/pt/shopping/men/balmain-biker-jeans-item-10916537.aspx?storeid=9462&ffref=lp_39_ , but like u said the blue one is better

    • Anonymous

      so maurice between the washed grey and the rich sea blue biker, which one u think i should get. be honest.

    • The rich sea blue biker are also true to size. Legs aren't to skinny and the waist is perfect. Favourite jeans so far.
      Maurice, why would you forgo the light blue bikers? Are you just saying that you would choose the rich sea blue biker as apposed to the light blue biker if you were to get one or the other?

    • It depends what colours are in your wadrobe and how frequent you can pair the biker jeans with most of your other outfits. Theres no point buying a colour that is difficult to match around. Personally if you have never owned a Balmain biker, the first choice I would recommend you to start with is the black waxed biker. However, if you wear more earth tones like beige, browns then I would recommend the deep blue instead.

      As between washed grey and sea blue, it is very subjective. I have chosen the deep blue because Balmain barely makes these, the greys are always available most of the time, therefore you can wait and get it next season once you have saved up more. But then again the real question is how well it could pair it with your closet.

      Thank you Ollie.

    • Anonymous

      thanks maurice, i order the blue sea, since i have to black waxed from balmain and the new blue vintage from this season. i am really happy with those one, now i gotta get me some saint laurent , been with them so i cannot quit now. what do you think about that
      http://www.farfetch.com/no/shopping/men/saint-laurent-classic-skinny-jeans-item-10901292.aspx?storeid=9460&ffref=lp_1_

    • Are you going on a post-holiday shopping spree? Lol…

      Congratulations, i'm sure you will enjoy them as much as I would love to have them. But sadly, I dont wear much blues.

      Besides the basic black Saint Laurent jeans, would you consider the leather and denim zip biker like the one on my current wishlist?

    • Anonymous

      lol no, just gettin some nice stuff, cause i like to mix thing with ann demeule,and rick owens , i used to have the slp leather and denim but i sold it, it was cool but i prefer balmain biker , i like them classic slp jeans better, but u should try some stuff from acne studio, they make some good stuff with good quality. try them. cisse from norway

    • I've been looking at Acne Studio since 2010, but I have too many luxury brands to play with now at the moment due to the blog commitment, therefore most of my funds are spend on Givenchy / Saint Laurent / Balmain, I give these brands top priority, and after this will be Thom Browne.

      But of course if anything that draws my desire to own it even if it was a contemporary brand, I would definitely pay for it.

      To be honest, I only get to wear the above brands during weekends, maybe some days on Friday when I can add a bit of casualwear in the office. But my company does not permit casual Fridays. Most of time throughout the week i'm in Ermenegildo Zegna, Paul Smith London and Armani Colleizioni. Strange huh…

      The most recent brand i've started buying is Sandro Paris, but sadly they are made in China. Although the quality is quite good..

  • Ambrose

    Hi Maurice, I'm choosing between these 2 pairs of jeans, would like to know whether is there any difference between them because i couldn't actually find any similar items on official Balmain website to verify with:

    http://www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/men/balmain-skinny-jeans-item-10903540.aspx?storeid=9462&ffref=lp_3_

    http://www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/men/balmain-ribbed-panel-jeans-item-10909506.aspx?storeid=9089&ffref=lp_46_

    Btw i am a huge fan of Balmain and a Malaysian too! Your blog has always inspired me! I am looking forward to FW15 collections, especially the sneakers. They are so catchy.
    Many thanks.

    • Thank you and happy Chinese New Year!

      First and second links are the same pair of jeans. There is a colour discrepancy from the photographs.

      These are fantastic bikers to go for, i'm sure you will love them!

      http://bit.ly/1EXMobJ

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