Runway

Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear

5th February 2016

Few sections of the fashion enthusiast community are more prone to such things than Givenchy devotees. It’s Parisian’s punishment for making the world’s greatest menswear – on and off, but mostly on – embarking on his second decade at the House of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has continuously tackled big themes with abstract notions in detailing dark obsessions, religion of the soul, freedom or love driven by dramatic expressions, that any significant change to it will also be regarded as a contentious one.

Unleashed in a torrent of new ideas this runway was oddly painted in fondant-pink, lit up in florescent tubes in a confined space and intense lighting yields a diverse and energetic collection, it was freedom. With the Fall Winter 2012 generation of house motto, the cue was enraged Rottweilers; leading towards Pre-Fall 2012 and 2013, were Sharks and double-headed Dobermans; with the Fall Winter 2015, it was those screaming Monkeys. And now, with the Fall Winter 2016, new-fangled Cobras. How dare they? The fact remains though, that whether or not you like the idea of what Tisci has just done in his latest Givenchy collection of its perennially blooming menswear, he is just wild about animals.

Last chance to buy your Givenchy Grey Monkeys Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt or the heavier substitute Givenchy Black Monkeys Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt in SSENSE.

Translating the Cobra element into a line of clothing is a tricky disposition, nevertheless Tisci will always find innovative ways, it appeared in a dozen times as intarsias, traditional prints, embroidery on typical sweaters, and oddly laser cut-out bomber jackets that had a bit of lumpy effect, as if it was made to look aesthetically substantive, exaggeration in its natural order as though it was a part of the wearer – it’s appeal was a head turner, difficult to be dismissed, and yet draws inquisitiveness to the mind.

Riccardo Tisci grew up in Italy dreaming of America, driven by the land of the free was an interpretation of various subcultures the designer extracted from his recent influence. The bejewelled crystal and studded in riveted elements strikes a very stark contrast in the Fall Winter 2016 collection. The Givenchy’s renegade cult gang dressed up in leather and metal-heavy, bodies volumes, and more blistered forms offer a plenty, visual subtlety, and more muscular than ever.

It is somehow much more prepossessing than the recent anticipated Berlin club kids Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear collection and at a much greater contentment to be looked at. Tisic created homage cowboys’ coats yokes of jackets, with shiny crystals gleaming, including a patched of leather in copper rivets, simply penny-sized studs. His main canvas was embellishments, pocking surfaces of coats, the groin of trousers, and the plackets of denim jackets. Riveted elements played a great measure, while harmonizing atop a pointed-toe, Cuban-heeled Mexican and cowboy boots.

What we have here are differing routes to the design of equally appealing clothing. Two years ago you’d probably have given this Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear collection the edge as a simple object of desire, but now – for reasons I can’t quite put my finger on – I wouldn’t. Perhaps the predominant main collections in the past just ages more gracefully.

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Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear presented by Riccardo Tisci

ALSO ON SECOND KULTURE:

In Motion: Givenchy Fall Winter 2016/2017 Full Fashion Show Menswear by FatalefashionIII

Current Advert: Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Advertising Campaign

Future Pre-Collection: Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear

Current Pre-Collection: Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 Menswear

Current Main Collection: Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

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  • Lucas JONES

    A spectacular show with very much quality detailing. A Divine. Period.

  • Rafa Nunez-Robinson

    Overall a very cohesive collection. He went back to his roots, yes, but I think he shoulda stay in 2013-2014.
    I’m not feeling the Kobra nor the Jesus print. Those prints make the brand look bratty and cheap.
    Also…where’s the statement shoe? He’s had one in every collection. Damn I know, I try to purchase 1 every year at least. Just the same as the last collection… I got the pool slide sandals because there was nothing else I liked (I also got a killer deal).
    I don’t know man… I think I’ma get the monkey brother pouch as still n antonioliu. Lol
    Rafa, Japan 😉

  • fendi

    I’m glad tisci returned to his classic runway presentation for this season. It was a good show, although I didn’t find the cut of the pants towards my liking, some pieces were nicelike the python elements

  • AJ

    Rottweilers, dobermans, rooster, monkey, jaguar, peacocks, now cobra snakes. Tisci going through entire animal kingdom

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