Hedi Slimane left for America and based himself in Los Angeles since 2007, the brand’s creative director unveiled the Saint Laurent studio there ever since he took reign. Slimane’s inspiration may have come in many parts of American culture, but he hasn’t forgotten the spiritual home of Saint Laurent.
On Sunday’s night, Saint Laurent previewed the final show of Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2015 menswear, but unlike the precedent collections – this season’s message was somewhat deliberately different. At the backstage, the designer proclaimed that he has just issued the Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear project called “Paris Sessions”, taking creativity from a young generation of musicians in Paris, and that the collection was outlined as a homage about them. It was surely some of those young musicians who sat cross-legged on the floor of front row, while the original soundtrack reflected the lyrics of a song by Mystere written especially for this evening’s show. How could the Parisian cliché be even more evident?
A revelation of glittering lights form a motion maze at the centre stage of the venue upon arrival. While traditional flat seating were strategically converted to a stadium format, providing guest with an unrestricted view as panache models strode down the catwalk in casted groups. The runway show was accompany by a series of photographs released through an invitation book, which featured Los Angles based Oscar Tuazon who was inspired by what he calls “outlaw architecture” – an essence of DIY hippy culture and life living off the grid. The spirit, as well as the angular lines depicted from the architectural installations were naturally translated into catwalks of Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection. It was a time to say goodbye sumptuous glam-rock, and hello chic understatement.
As accord to Slimane’s Saint Laurent codes, silhouettes remains perpetually skinny tight throughout the entire collection. The inarguably noticeable colour that has driven the collection is perhaps the most essential and practical of all. Black is the mandatory colourway for this season, simply because it compliments almost everything. A signature designer look discern from a fitted three-button caban, an inverse-color Breton stripe sweater recollects a naval-series, coordinating various tops with skinny-skinny pants and stove pipe denim jeans. A grudge-touched pitch black jacket with polo-neck worn with black skinny leather trousers slashes with silver zippers is the all new biker conquest. While a sudden hot pink fur jacket commits a visual surge in the show, as well as many shimmering beaded blazers, have all became the hallmark of a resuscitate the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle.
In addition, Slimane also brought back his very own signature narrow suits and skinny ties back on the runway, and showcased a beautiful reinterpretation of the regular pinstripe suit. Majority of the looks were worn with cocked berets adorned with studded band pins which complete the French style. The only element that is consistent throughout the collection were the highly distinct 8cm cuban heel boots that pay tribute to earlier Dior Homme. It seems like the only way the youth can be cool is to reiterate styles of the past.
Needless to say, Saint Laurent is known to offer ineffable quality to its wearer and Hedi Slimane has created clothes with a certain je-ne-sais-quoi about them, summarising an expertly executed collection that is bound to sell out like hot-cakes. From today’s case point, the question lies whether did Slimane left the Californian boys for good? Shop the new arrivals from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 Psych Rock Menswear now available at Luisa Via Roma.
SAINT LAURENT FALL WINTER 2015 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
Complete 62 Looks in High Resolution
Source: Photographs by Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com
SAINT LAURENT FALL WINTER 2015 MENSWEAR IN DETAIL
Source: Photographs by Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com
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