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Balmain Fall Winter 2016 Menswear

27th February 2016

At Balmain’s second ever menswear runway show after last season’s summer’s dessert safari-explorer collection, the Parisian house renege towards its core values featuring a remix of classic elegance and modern sophistication. The grand venue was gold-lined, rows of glittering chandeliers hung up on high ceilings above an ultra-modern glossy pitch ¬black runway, an archetypal feature to the house of Balmain codes. Creative director Olivier Rousteing showcased a handsome offering of brazenness extravagance of the 19th century startled, it was Napoleonic mission to delivered in a grandeur of what was Rococo met Fabergé, met War and Peace, met Versailles, met Claude Montana, met Dune, and the Highlander, in a dizzying display of resplendence pitched at the aristocracy of fortunes.

This time the collection was by far most extreme in its own kind, Rousteing pushed his signature concept beyond the standard approach and high above limits. The Balmain Fall Winter 2016 menswear featured a high percentage of clothing embellished in Swarovski crystals and gold embroidered that riffed off military wear staples, a powerful form mostly highly desired by Balmain army fanatics. It was certainly audacious, certainly over the top, and overly done, but the collection designed in its very form of luxurious language seems to feeds the brand in high energy and conviction, it almost seem like the entire production was taken from BBC’s War and Peace. The Balmain transition in Fall Winter 2016 has been quiet remarkable, it was a glimpse of fresh air, yet again, unashamed, youthful, and unflappable optimism – a small yet large dedicated collection towards a niche market of consumers who find great appreciation towards this complex phantom approach.

What I desired most out of the sea of sparkles were some of the closing jackets, a midnight blue double breasted velvet jacket dressed in gold embroidered epaulettes, cuffs, and lapel which resembles a core feature dated back towards the earlier Asian infused Balmain Fall Winter 2013 Menswear – it is after all a classic piece in the Balmain norm, a staple prominent piece which every Balmainac wardrobe requires but runs deep in one’s pocket. There were a number of tailcoats, equestrian-style knee-high boots, jackets belted in wide quilted cummerbund held with calfskin leather thronging trimmed with fancy long tassels, drop crotch velvet trousers were best to my liking – a sense of style beyond the standard of fashion but yet future-proofed as these elements were all too similar, it rings a bell that these were first introduced once three years ago, and now it has returned again. STORY CONTINUES BELOW.

BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
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Runway

Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear

5th February 2016

Few sections of the fashion enthusiast community are more prone to such things than Givenchy devotees. It’s Parisian’s punishment for making the world’s greatest menswear – on and off, but mostly on – embarking on his second decade at the House of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has continuously tackled big themes with abstract notions in detailing dark obsessions, religion of the soul, freedom or love driven by dramatic expressions, that any significant change to it will also be regarded as a contentious one.

Unleashed in a torrent of new ideas this runway was oddly painted in fondant-pink, lit up in florescent tubes in a confined space and intense lighting yields a diverse and energetic collection, it was freedom. With the Fall Winter 2012 generation of house motto, the cue was enraged Rottweilers; leading towards Pre-Fall 2012 and 2013, were Sharks and double-headed Dobermans; with the Fall Winter 2015, it was those screaming Monkeys. And now, with the Fall Winter 2016, new-fangled Cobras. How dare they? The fact remains though, that whether or not you like the idea of what Tisci has just done in his latest Givenchy collection of its perennially blooming menswear, he is just wild about animals.

Last chance to buy your Givenchy Grey Monkeys Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt or the heavier substitute Givenchy Black Monkeys Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt in SSENSE.

Translating the Cobra element into a line of clothing is a tricky disposition, nevertheless Tisci will always find innovative ways, it appeared in a dozen times as intarsias, traditional prints, embroidery on typical sweaters, and oddly laser cut-out bomber jackets that had a bit of lumpy effect, as if it was made to look aesthetically substantive, exaggeration in its natural order as though it was a part of the wearer – it’s appeal was a head turner, difficult to be dismissed, and yet draws inquisitiveness to the mind.

Riccardo Tisci grew up in Italy dreaming of America, driven by the land of the free was an interpretation of various subcultures the designer extracted from his recent influence. The bejewelled crystal and studded in riveted elements strikes a very stark contrast in the Fall Winter 2016 collection. The Givenchy’s renegade cult gang dressed up in leather and metal-heavy, bodies volumes, and more blistered forms offer a plenty, visual subtlety, and more muscular than ever.

It is somehow much more prepossessing than the recent anticipated Berlin club kids Givenchy Pre-Fall 2016 Menswear collection and at a much greater contentment to be looked at. Tisic created homage cowboys’ coats yokes of jackets, with shiny crystals gleaming, including a patched of leather in copper rivets, simply penny-sized studs. His main canvas was embellishments, pocking surfaces of coats, the groin of trousers, and the plackets of denim jackets. Riveted elements played a great measure, while harmonizing atop a pointed-toe, Cuban-heeled Mexican and cowboy boots.

What we have here are differing routes to the design of equally appealing clothing. Two years ago you’d probably have given this Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Menswear collection the edge as a simple object of desire, but now – for reasons I can’t quite put my finger on – I wouldn’t. Perhaps the predominant main collections in the past just ages more gracefully.

GIVENCHY FALL WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
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News

Milan/Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2016 Schedule

15th January 2016

MILAN FASHION WEEK MENS FALL WINTER 2016
FASHION SHOWS & PRESENTATIONS

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Source: FineArtAmerica.com: Duomo Di Milano-Schizzo, sketched by Luca Massone

FRIDAY, 15 JANUARY 2016
FASHION SHOWS

8:00pm – Roberto CavalliNOWFASHION Live

SATURDAY, 16 JANUARY 2016
FASHION SHOWS

9:30am – Corneliani / NOWFASHION Live
10:30am – Ermenegildo Zegna / NOWFASHION Live
11:30am – Lucio Vanotti
12:30pm – Costume National / NOWFASHION Live
2:00pm – Dolce & Gabanna / NOWFASHION Live
3:00pm – Marni / NOWFASHION Live
4:00pm – Jil Sander / NOWFASHION Live
5:00pm – Les Hommes / NOWFASHION Live
6:00pm – Neil Barrett / NOWFASHION Live
7:00pm – Pal Zileri / NOWFASHION Live
8:00pm – Versace / NOWFASHION Live
9:00pm – Philipp Plein / NOWFASHION Live

PRESENTATIONS

9:00am > 6:00pm – Jimmy Choo
10:00am > 7:00pm – Car Shoe
10:00am > 7:00pm – Church’s
10:00am > 6:00pm – Roberto Botticelli
10:30am > 6:00pm – Brunello Cucinelli
11:30am > 1:30pm – D.A.T.E. for Giuliano Fujiwara
12:00pm > 2:00pm – Ralph Lauren Purple Label
12:30am > 2:30pm – Iceberg
1:00am > 2:00pm – Hogan
2:00am > 6:00pm – Giuseppe Zanotti Design
3:00am > 7:00pm – Stella Jean
4:00am > 6:00pm – Kiton
4:00am > 8:00pm – Luca Larenza

Sneak Peek

Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Showroom Sneak Peek

30th July 2015

It is the third consecutive Safari and Adventurer collection we have seen, but the era of Balmain’s menswear has never been so superseded by something more. The first ever menswear runway show by the Parisian house not only mark’s a new milestone in its history, the collection itself differs to be somewhat different, combining the best attributes from its pedigree – most notable the Balmain Fall Winter 2014 Glamazon Boys and Balmain Spring Summer 2013 Military Safari menswear collections. The Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection can perhaps be best described as an innovated approach in practical luxury at ease, but of course there will always be those extravagant pieces one could only dream about.

The good old Balmain trademark treatment given to its latest menswear collection could only mean one thing, bolder looks, significant details, larger embroidery, distinctive embellishments and a lot more choice for the mortal with deep pockets to experiment. Despite it’s luxurious attitude and signature aesthetics it’s quite an understated collection, you can arguably wear most of the collection around town and not cause a single battled eyelid. Well of course if you opt for the right pieces, especially those that are heritage towards the classic biker or skewed towards the safari wearer, such as the cargo utility trousers and jackets to name a few. Isn’t that the best attribute of wearing Balmain? Understated elegance, only those who recognize the little details will be able to find genuine appreciation.

At the label’s showroom on 44 Rue Francois 1er, there were, admittedly, articulated clothing on racks sorted based on characteristics. At one end, there are the adventurer’s light linens in khaki and whites derived from the Safari concept, while the other side showcases the vigorous animal prints perhaps more suitable for a flamboyant celebrity, leading it towards powerful runway quilted leather, embroidered and embellished variants. But what we would like to see here are the pieces that were not featured in the runway, many thanks to global buyers we are able to have a prior glimpse on a small selection of commercialized pieces concealed from the public eye. These photographs are extremely difficult to source season by season, it seems as though Balmain is trying to retain buyers and guest from exposing them before the collection officially hits the stores worldwide from March 2016 onwards.

My favorite piece below has to be the Balmain Black & Khaki Union Jack Distressed Knit Sweater, also available in the traditional Navy & Red, which made a huge distinction on the runway show including various highlights on press. Although it was featured earlier, observing one on a hanger while privately modeled in the showroom gives off a real feeling to the quality and clothing interpretation that could be related to a daily wearer. Another piece that I am aiming to acquire is the Balmain Embellished Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket; you can see it hanging by the racks behind one of the models wearing the Balmain White Draped Sleeveless Cotton T-Shirt in the below image. There is just so much affection to it that I find it difficult to describe it in words, to me it is the perfect Balmain jacket from this season, and regardless of your point of view, it is truly a stunning piece and a worthy successor to Balmain Satin-Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket from Balmain Spring Summer 2012 menswear.

Besides the above, there are some tremendously brilliant details in the collection, take for example the Balmain Brown Latticed Embroidered Jacket. It is a single piece constructed from thorough embroidery handwork, one could only guess how complicated it is to produce this particular jacket, especially when the designer will have to make at least two common sizes (48, 50) throughout its production. These are literally works of art; imagine owning the latticed embroidered jacket or the rich golden embellished blazers from the collection? They may become just the thing fashion historians will reference in years to come. For men’s ready to wear, it’s the closest thing to couture. Personally, this isn’t your proper safari wear; it is your daily weapon.

BALMAIN BLACK UTILITY-POCKET HOODED SLEEVELESS VEST
61.J820.B139 — $1,368 (approx.)
Balmain Homme Spring Summer 2016 Collection

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BALMAIN BLACK DOUBLE LAYERED SUSPENDER STRAPS SHORTS
61.T513.D374 — $1,198 (approx.)
BALMAIN BLACK LACE-UP OPEN-TOE GLADIATOR LEATHER SANDALS
61.T996.BA31M — $2,235 (approx.)
Balmain Homme Spring Summer 2016 Collection

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Runway

Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

30th June 2015

It’s a story we all know too well, a collection that reaches an age and it gets the obligatory nip and tuck, in the hope that a fresher look will consecutively appeal to those buyers who are interested. The Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear seems to the case, a consistent streamlined collection that speaks toward its avid fans again, the usual college jackets, tartan plaid print shirts, stove-piped jeans and etcetera, but there was something different this season. Prior to the show release, Saint Laurent Twitter gave out a few hints of the upcoming menswear collection; it was called “Surf Sound”, an elaborative and dedicated contemporary Califonian surf music culture collection. One of many American inspired stories that curated by creative director Hedi Slimane has since he took the office at Los Angeles.

Surf Sound is an interesting mix of California flavored thrift shop fashion with an arty cool vintage appeal at a music scene, it is called a continuous effort to promote Slimane’s commercial and critical galvanization to the house of Saint Laurent, mind grunge style it is. Iconic looks were reference from Nirvana’s front man Kurt Cobain and Canadian musician Neil Young. The soundtrack of the show was exclusively composed by Swimmers, a band based in Oakland, Calirornia. The soundtrack called “Like Harry Dean Stanton” includes innervation song lines like “I wanna be 16…”. In the show interest itself, Hollywood male models Charlie Oldman and Dylan Brosnan strut the catwalk debut as their noble fathers, Gary Oldman and Pierce Brosnan watch them on from the front row.

The latest Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection translate an array of diversified surf culture looks, the only consistency here was substance. A classic Saint Laurent long tuxedo smoking jacket were retuned with a colourful Hawaiian Palm Tree sequinned lapel, eminent cropped leather jackets came out with distinguished micro studded trims and contrast red accents, while there was an abundance of mix tattered plaid western shirts with frayed-hem raw cuts – these were ideal essentials for the Saint Laurent enthusiast.

There were much more as the motif collection continues with jacquard embroidered floral prints, oversized military camo coats returns, daisy floral prints, contrast striped knitwear, animal prints on bomber jackets and scarfs, party confetti prints, and lastly polka dots. The first look was the strongest amongst all, featuring a multicolor and multiprint patchwork on a black leather zipper jacket that has a definitive meaning of concluding the entire surf sound collection in one single piece. Then there was the stove piped denim jeans, this time there were high-waisted and loose in fit offered in a blown-out destroyed knees variant. Even crisp white leather sneakers were made used as if it has gone through several years of hard wear – these were ironically a line of luxury-assembled duplicates of cheap items one could find in most Cali-thrift shop sale.

But replicating such looks at a fraction of a price point would miss the essence of Slimane’s influence, because nothing feeds in desirability like partaking in an emotional journey curated by an unequivocal sartorialist. The word “curator,” truly applies to Slimane who conjure an unprecedented vibe. The spirited youth he casts for models on the streets in California, the uncharted artists and musicians he discovers, and the garment he chooses to aggregate, all paints a picture we all know to well, but finds little appreciation to comprehend such cultures in a daily basis, these are the future archetype that he is trying to evoke in a faultless assembly.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

The key items from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection are the colourful souvenir alike teddy varsity jackets, one of the cornerstone garments renowned by the house. The new teddy varsity jackets are portrayed in retro touches with luxurious couture embroidery and beading, similar towards the highly anticipated Saint Laurent Blood Luster Embroidered Teddy Varsity Jacket from Spring Summer 2014.

For aspiration young fans, buying Saint Laurent might be just a dream away but considering the more affordable accessories are probably the fundamental investment one could attain. The white plastic bug eyed sunglasses is a trademark of Cobain were mostly featured by the models in this season’s show. Some of them also had his dirty peroxide hair, though it’s probably the sunglasses that have the biggest pull for the well-heeled Saint Laurent customer. Additional accessories such as beanie knit hats, tucker caps, red knit socks, and leopard print cotton scarfs are key aesthetics for a Saint Laurent gratification.

SAINT LAURENT SPRING SUMMER 2016 MENSWEAR
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Runway

Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

28th June 2015

For almost as long as I can remember, the Balmain menswear collection was one of the most desirable amongst the others. Back in the late 2010s, the creation of Balmain Homme by Christophe Decarnin was a small spark to a large beginning, while I wasn’t into fashion at that time I did get a glimpse to experience the collection a few years later, it was one of the most memorable fashion experience I had. I could still recall my initial attitude towards the collection and its exorbitant pricing, which I thought was ludicrous at that time. But just having the privileged to appreciate the collection in reality felt rewarding, and much more once I’ve acquired a few pieces that I’m proud to call mine.

The Parisian catwalk saw a vast number of models, almost 30 looks extra as compared to its previous Paris Fashion Week debut. Balmain Homme has champion larger collections in every season until most recently in history, the Parisian house debut its very first former runway show. Creative director Olivier Rousteing expresses at a backstage interview that although women have always known the designer brand, menswear has accounted for a respectable 40 percent of the business. This huge prospect gave Balmain Homme the opportunity to showcase its first menswear show that also features a few advance viewing of Resort 2016 womenswear. “I have a chance with my brand, it’s that my woman and my man can actually buy their clothes together. So I think it was important to do my first show, and at the same time have my girls, which is really an important part of the business, and connect them together. I think it is really interesting because at a lot of the brands, the men and the women are really different. My Balmain men and my Balmain women are really synchronized and I’m really happy with that.” said Rousteing. The latter modeled by socialite Peter Brant, whose younger brother, Harry, also walked in the show, including world’s most successful male model, Sean O’Pry and Alessandra Ambrosio who decked in women’s resort. When questioned about Balmain Homme’s future, Rousteing said he would like a fond remembrance of this moment to even after 5 years down the line.

For this forthcoming season, Olivier Rousteing seeks inspiration from a safari exploration; an adventurous traveler finding treasures, the masculine Balmain men discovering the world quoted the designer. This is the third installation reflected from the classic theme that was initially explored in the most recent Balmain Fall Winter 2014 menswear, and the antecedent Balmain Spring Summer 2013 menswear collection. The new Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear derives equally from both former collections and seems to shares the same sentiment across an array of looks that are unique in the modern day context. The collection infuses in shades of brown, khaki, caramel, neutral earth tones, dusty whites and occasionally juxtapose against blacks with gold embroidered accents, bewildered ponyhair tiger prints were among the signature aesthetics that gave creation towards a luxurious attitude. A letter left on the venue seats expresses the creative designer’s though process and elaboration towards the latest collection – “Theapeutic Value”, the most fascinating things about designing.

The Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection represents a crossroads of cultural influences and the desert exploration embodied a metaphor for creation. At the end of the journey, the created object was a cathartic symbol. Most notable elements were reintroduced references from the earlier quest in heavy innovation. The desert exploration starts with leather jackets were intricately braided and laced in heavy luxurious detailing, while explorer suit came spliced in a double-breasted jacket series with refined satin touches. Military influences were all over; utility pockets were made into cargos detailing with belted key ring fastenings in slouchy drop-crotched pants. There was even more room for opulence, ending the vast few in shimmery gold embellishments made on black outfits to retains the exclusive legacy, some were embroidered from in phoenix and lions. The collection felt extremely luxurious and thrillingly glamorous.

A second take on the open-toe gladiator sandal has returned for the following season, this time there is a new line-up in various shades of browns and khaki colourway, typically in calf leather or suede variants in high-tops mimicking desert military boots in periodic translation. The latest distinct feature is the multi-velcro fastening which is truly unique by its repetition design, while others were equipped with mountaineer laces. Last made available in Balmain Spring Summer 2015 menswear in a black quilted leather lace-up variant, we think it’s grotesque and less well-received compare to it’s sneaker and military boots counterparts.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

First introduced in Balmain Fall Winter 2014 menswear in a ponyhair leopard variant, the wild party animal prints are back. Spotted near the finale of the show was the glistering Balmain Tiger Print Crest Embroidered Varsity Leather Jacket, a successor to its predecessor that may look delirious compared to the usual college wear, but this luxurious outwear is one of the collection’s ultimate masterpiece. I wouldn’t be surprise to see a few celebrities sporting one in the subsequent year.

Perhaps one of my most favourable statement jackets in this season is the Balmain Gold Embellished Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket, seen later near the end of the show is a classic piece that merit a second look. It is based on the earlier Balmain Satin-Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket that was first introduced in Balmain Spring Summer 2012 menswear, it was Rousteing’s first menswear collection as appointed creative director. The first series saw a python lapel that was worn by a few renowned celebrities; there was also a more accessible satin-lapel version which was later redesigned in following seasons. I find this a nostalgic piece simply because I own the earlier satin-lapel version, the new added gold embellished trims on the lapel redefines the entire outlook, the gold embellishments are plated like an scale armour – it exhibits a balance between masculinity and higher elegance, both attributes known to the house of Balmain.

The Balmain Camel Brown Drop-Crotch Cargo Trousers with suspended belt loops is an ideal piece for spring season, those who would like to break from the sweat can opt for the Balmain Camel Brown Utility Pockets Cargo Pleated Shorts in summer, but both of these styles are quite season based. If I have been given only one choice to pick the best out of the entire season, I would go for the Balmain White Cargo Leather Zipped Biker Sweatpants – this remarkable pair features various key elements that are significant to towards the Balmain Homme heritage, knee-ribbed details, oversized utility pockets on waist with belt loop fastening, and zipper embellished pockets.

BALMAIN SPRING SUMMER 2016 MENSWEAR
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Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Runway Show Look 1

Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Runway Show Look 2

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