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Runway

Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

30th June 2015

It’s a story we all know too well, a collection that reaches an age and it gets the obligatory nip and tuck, in the hope that a fresher look will consecutively appeal to those buyers who are interested. The Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear seems to the case, a consistent streamlined collection that speaks toward its avid fans again, the usual college jackets, tartan plaid print shirts, stove-piped jeans and etcetera, but there was something different this season. Prior to the show release, Saint Laurent Twitter gave out a few hints of the upcoming menswear collection; it was called “Surf Sound”, an elaborative and dedicated contemporary Califonian surf music culture collection. One of many American inspired stories that curated by creative director Hedi Slimane has since he took the office at Los Angeles.

Surf Sound is an interesting mix of California flavored thrift shop fashion with an arty cool vintage appeal at a music scene, it is called a continuous effort to promote Slimane’s commercial and critical galvanization to the house of Saint Laurent, mind grunge style it is. Iconic looks were reference from Nirvana’s front man Kurt Cobain and Canadian musician Neil Young. The soundtrack of the show was exclusively composed by Swimmers, a band based in Oakland, Calirornia. The soundtrack called “Like Harry Dean Stanton” includes innervation song lines like “I wanna be 16…”. In the show interest itself, Hollywood male models Charlie Oldman and Dylan Brosnan strut the catwalk debut as their noble fathers, Gary Oldman and Pierce Brosnan watch them on from the front row.

The latest Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection translate an array of diversified surf culture looks, the only consistency here was substance. A classic Saint Laurent long tuxedo smoking jacket were retuned with a colourful Hawaiian Palm Tree sequinned lapel, eminent cropped leather jackets came out with distinguished micro studded trims and contrast red accents, while there was an abundance of mix tattered plaid western shirts with frayed-hem raw cuts – these were ideal essentials for the Saint Laurent enthusiast.

There were much more as the motif collection continues with jacquard embroidered floral prints, oversized military camo coats returns, daisy floral prints, contrast striped knitwear, animal prints on bomber jackets and scarfs, party confetti prints, and lastly polka dots. The first look was the strongest amongst all, featuring a multicolor and multiprint patchwork on a black leather zipper jacket that has a definitive meaning of concluding the entire surf sound collection in one single piece. Then there was the stove piped denim jeans, this time there were high-waisted and loose in fit offered in a blown-out destroyed knees variant. Even crisp white leather sneakers were made used as if it has gone through several years of hard wear – these were ironically a line of luxury-assembled duplicates of cheap items one could find in most Cali-thrift shop sale.

But replicating such looks at a fraction of a price point would miss the essence of Slimane’s influence, because nothing feeds in desirability like partaking in an emotional journey curated by an unequivocal sartorialist. The word “curator,” truly applies to Slimane who conjure an unprecedented vibe. The spirited youth he casts for models on the streets in California, the uncharted artists and musicians he discovers, and the garment he chooses to aggregate, all paints a picture we all know to well, but finds little appreciation to comprehend such cultures in a daily basis, these are the future archetype that he is trying to evoke in a faultless assembly.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

The key items from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection are the colourful souvenir alike teddy varsity jackets, one of the cornerstone garments renowned by the house. The new teddy varsity jackets are portrayed in retro touches with luxurious couture embroidery and beading, similar towards the highly anticipated Saint Laurent Blood Luster Embroidered Teddy Varsity Jacket from Spring Summer 2014.

For aspiration young fans, buying Saint Laurent might be just a dream away but considering the more affordable accessories are probably the fundamental investment one could attain. The white plastic bug eyed sunglasses is a trademark of Cobain were mostly featured by the models in this season’s show. Some of them also had his dirty peroxide hair, though it’s probably the sunglasses that have the biggest pull for the well-heeled Saint Laurent customer. Additional accessories such as beanie knit hats, tucker caps, red knit socks, and leopard print cotton scarfs are key aesthetics for a Saint Laurent gratification.

SAINT LAURENT SPRING SUMMER 2016 MENSWEAR
COMPLETE 77 LOOKS

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Wishlist

Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 Wishlist

7th June 2015

The Saint Laurent menswear has always been if not, continuously delivering pure luxury that speaks of craftsmanship and authenticity in the leading designer market. For the upcoming Fall Winter 2015, Saint Laurent men’s collection entitles “Paris Sessions” has undergone a creative makeover to further aid its perpetual appeal to those that appreciates and buys these success statements.

Hedi Slimane’s Paris Sessions inspirits a fresh generation of young Parisian musicians who constitutes to be the next Saint Laurent man, or boy. The latest homage collection consist an array of what seems to be ‘statement wardrobe essentials’ with little extreme pieces to spare, besides the highly pretentious hot pink mink fur coat. This is probably the most aggressive collection at Saint Laurent by Slimane so far, the signature punk rock demeanour has an remarkable appeal with relentless quality offered by the house. The outfits presented at Luisa Via Roma’s Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 season has a subtle approach yet equally intriguingly in style, it’s the type of beauty you could see and appreciate from a distance or even up closed in details.

There is something significant of that in Slimane, where creating less equals more, provided the designer produces the right pieces which could potentially translate an extended repetition for the wearer – such as the infamous skinny denim jeans, tartan plaid wool shirts and not to forget the notable Saint Laurent FW13 Teddy Varsity Jacket which all falls into this category. Slimane certainly has a talent of taking all the good quality bits of what’s gone in the past and re-proposing them as new ideas for now, it makes sense for any younger man in reality or spirit to invest in Saint Laurent because he’s more than likely to still be wearing them after a few seasons, possibly even in 5 years’ time. With Hedi Slimane, it hard to fault with most of his creations, the only significant challenge one face is either you are a believer in his vision or you are not.

There were a handful of runway looks at Luisa Via Roma’s new Fall Winter 2015 pre-order collection to choose from, every single Saint Laurent piece felt like building blocks we are all supposed to own, although most might consider them to be ‘fashion pieces’ that eventually would fade after a season or two. Unlike the other designers, Slimane certainly knows how to squeeze out the most vibrant potential from the decadent fashion ages, turning great bits of design into ultimate classics, something that goes with almost everything else without having the much thought required.

This season’s future statement classics pieces on my list that everyone should particular invest to start with is the Saint Laurent Swarovski Viscose Velvet Bomber Jacket, based on the teddy varsity jacket, this velvet bomber features rows of Swarovski crystals that forms a symmetrical fan-shaped shells of scallops – makes a perfect piece for a hot night out. I would also consider the a bold out monochrome Saint Laurent Striped Wool Sweater and Saint Laurent Striped Shetland Wool Scarf priced at an affordable $350 – these essential pieces accentuate the natural SL style. On Fridays, I would love to be dressed in a killer looking Saint Laurent Pinstriped Wool Suit to take on the office – yes I suggest you need to get them in one set not separate pieces to match. A fancy Saint Laurent Micro Confetti Print Light Viscose Twill Shirt that has evolved from its predecessor FW14 collection, and last but not least – really tight skinny denims in the case of a 5 zipper pocket feature on the Saint Laurent 15cm Black Zipper Stretch Denim Jeans. These styles are a few examples that are particular convincing for great casual classics with a fashion edge that are timeless, among the simple black colour palette, seductive motifs, and penchant for sequins made a prominent splash. From boys and men – will want it all.

Top down, the Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection wasn’t anything that we have not seen before but it didn’t matter, because every bit and extra detailing enclosed on repeated styles still felt as fresh and enthralling as it claimed to be. It is a beautiful collection with a piece of history that plans to move you even after many years. Although the basic silhouette has been around for a decade now since Slimane started from Dior Homme, and even despite the hefty price tag circling in four figures on average will sell like hot cakes. So better reserve yours now at Luisa Via Roma, especially the pieces that aspires you the most won’t be hanging too long.

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Runway

Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 Menswear

29th January 2015

Hedi Slimane left for America and based himself in Los Angeles since 2007, the brand’s creative director unveiled the Saint Laurent studio there ever since he took reign. Slimane’s inspiration may have come in many parts of American culture, but he hasn’t forgotten the spiritual home of Saint Laurent.

On Sunday’s night, Saint Laurent previewed the final show of Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2015 menswear, but unlike the precedent collections – this season’s message was somewhat deliberately different. At the backstage, the designer proclaimed that he has just issued the Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear project called “Paris Sessions”, taking creativity from a young generation of musicians in Paris, and that the collection was outlined as a homage about them. It was surely some of those young musicians who sat cross-legged on the floor of front row, while the original soundtrack reflected the lyrics of a song by Mystere written especially for this evening’s show. How could the Parisian cliché be even more evident?

A revelation of glittering lights form a motion maze at the centre stage of the venue upon arrival. While traditional flat seating were strategically converted to a stadium format, providing guest with an unrestricted view as panache models strode down the catwalk in casted groups. The runway show was accompany by a series of photographs released through an invitation book, which featured Los Angles based Oscar Tuazon who was inspired by what he calls “outlaw architecture” – an essence of DIY hippy culture and life living off the grid. The spirit, as well as the angular lines depicted from the architectural installations were naturally translated into catwalks of Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection. It was a time to say goodbye sumptuous glam-rock, and hello chic understatement.

As accord to Slimane’s Saint Laurent codes, silhouettes remains perpetually skinny tight throughout the entire collection. The inarguably noticeable colour that has driven the collection is perhaps the most essential and practical of all. Black is the mandatory colourway for this season, simply because it compliments almost everything. A signature designer look discern from a fitted three-button caban, an inverse-color Breton stripe sweater recollects a naval-series, coordinating various tops with skinny-skinny pants and stove pipe denim jeans. A grudge-touched pitch black jacket with polo-neck worn with black skinny leather trousers slashes with silver zippers is the all new biker conquest. While a sudden hot pink fur jacket commits a visual surge in the show, as well as many shimmering beaded blazers, have all became the hallmark of a resuscitate the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle.

In addition, Slimane also brought back his very own signature narrow suits and skinny ties back on the runway, and showcased a beautiful reinterpretation of the regular pinstripe suit. Majority of the looks were worn with cocked berets adorned with studded band pins which complete the French style. The only element that is consistent throughout the collection were the highly distinct 8cm cuban heel boots that pay tribute to earlier Dior Homme. It seems like the only way the youth can be cool is to reiterate styles of the past.

Needless to say, Saint Laurent is known to offer ineffable quality to its wearer and Hedi Slimane has created clothes with a certain je-ne-sais-quoi about them, summarising an expertly executed collection that is bound to sell out like hot-cakes. From today’s case point, the question lies whether did Slimane left the Californian boys for good? Shop the new arrivals from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 Psych Rock Menswear now available at Luisa Via Roma.

SAINT LAURENT FALL WINTER 2015 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
Complete 62 Looks in High Resolution

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Lookbook

Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 “Psych Rock” Lookbook

5th January 2015

“Psych Rock” is the latest introduction of the appropriate named Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 menswear and womenswear ready-to-wear collection. Hedi Slimane himself as the photographer curated his black-and-white signature diary-style photography at Connecticut earlier in July 2014 by unveiling a 1970s lifestyle centric rock ‘n’ roll-inspired, bohemian, and psychedelic lean venture for the latest Parisian lookbook. Checkout and be inspired by Hedi Slimane’s official web-diary.

The 58 complete collection images below features American youths who were discovered through a street casting and female models Harleth Kuusik and Madison Louise Stubbington. Captured in dramatic approach, showcases the rebellions ways of life and youth culture movements in a selection of distinct silhouettes, emphasising on contrasting print layering, napoleonic embroidered jackets, vests and a special accessories take on the vintage handcrafted Tuareg jewellery collection, known for being highly collectible.

Majority may find it difficult to understand the proposition of Saint Laurent creations, and many would further argue that it is ludicrous to splurge over a collection at such exorbitant prices that are nowhere near enough to justify. Unfortunately in reality truth, Saint Laurent isn’t the type of beauty and craftsmanship you could see and appreciate from a distance. Nonetheless, when you buy a piece from one of Hedi Slimane’s collections, you are not just buying well-made fashion, but you are buying art and culture, and that makes it a true investment.

THE SAINT LAURENT SPRING SUMMER 2015 “PSYCH ROCK” LOOKBOOK
complete 58 images in high-res.

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Wishlist

Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 Wishlist

18th December 2014

The new Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 menswear might just look like another skinny teddy boy mix of retro rock archetype, but in actual fact it is very different and that’s because the designer has turned his vision towards one of the most profound movements in America culture, encompassing a sartorial diversification of characters in the 1970s from hippies, folk music, rock, surf culture, and the war veterans. It is an intensive historical menswear collection classified by the range of events that has influence the future anticipation for this coming Spring Summer 2015.

There are two things that immediately hit you when you first observe the collection. One is the pinpointing style of 70s psych rockers and second is the toughened-up mystic bohemianism. If the thought of that fills you with nightmares about self-representation anxiety in our modern society and the apprehensive acceptance of thereminiscent past, then the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 collection is not meant for you. If so, you should move along and read about my Givenchy Spring Summer 2015 wishlist or the more futuristic Balmain Spring Summer 2015 wishlist that will probably appeal to your modern tastebuds.

What truly speaks from the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 menswear is the immense luxury of craftsmanship and the authenticity of Hedi Slimane’s creations. At Saint Laurent it’s all about embracing the youth culture in Los Angeles not French elegance, it is not surprising to see that the designer has taken yet another goodlook into the America’s richest culture, after all this is his language for the current future of menswear. There are many noteworthy pieces in the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 menswear collection to be enjoyed that outweighs its wearability limitation, as majority would agree that the initial reaction was that the collection was a bit too costume alike.

To begin with, let’s consider how desirable the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 menswear can be rather than how practical you can wear it.Considering if you were a Saint Laurent fanatic, you would probably acknowledge the designer’s stylish contour creations that gives it a distinctive presence. A few key pieces that you should watch and pay close attention to isthe Saint Laurent Bordeaux Starburst Velvet Teddy Jacket, this notably teddy jacketstays at the top of my current wishlist as it features a handful of timeless hand-sewn embellishments and sequins setting in rich burgundy velvet with gold lurex ribbed collar and cuffs that makes it the ultimate luxury ‘future classic’ piece to own. This teddy jacket may just be that piece fashion historians will reference for years to come, for those we has the extra cash to splurge a fortune over the latest Saint Laurent collection must not missed out on this. On of the most iconic denim jeans from this season is theSaint Laurent 15cm Navajo Metal Embellished Lace-Up Detail Denim Jeans, this pair of skinny denims celebrates the Indian Western tradition by integrating a strung of bolo tie inspired neckwear that is often associated with the culture. In detail it is a piece of braided cord lacedacross the entire leg that secures the decorativemetal Navajo ornaments, this unique feature previously unseengive it good reasons to be a real head turner for Spring Summer 2015. What I would really want in this season is nothing too much but a good old fashioned camouflage shirt, and the Saint Laurent Khaki & Green Camouflage Print Western Shirt that is now available at SSENSEseems to have fulfill my desirability, this particular camouflage print shirt is unlike anything I have came across in the past, although camouflage may have seemed to be the quintessential print for 2014, even designers from Valentino to Givenchy for Pre-Spring 2014 does not offer the same distinct presence as the new Saint Laurent does. There is a certain charm in those khaki, green, and blacks and the shape of the camo that has made this shirt a true classic piece to be owned.

While on the other hand, there are a number of pieces that seems really dated and old fashioned in my own opinion which I am not too confident that they will make a positive statement in reality. These are deemed more ‘costumey’ than high-end runway fashion, pieces such as the Saint Laurent Fringed Camouflage Print Jacket that is arriving soon at Matches Fashion is perhaps presumably more of an badly cut oversize shirt than an outwear, this so called military precision craft piece has a prominent gold fringing on the front chest and the rear back, not to exclude further gold embroidered on epaulettes and cuffs, only a true bohemian could pull off this archaic. Besides this, there is the Saint Laurent Metallic Striped Lamé Blazer which made the first collection released in December 2014, frankly speaking it looks like what a circus ringmaster would wear although its initial design pays homage to the 1970s rock stars, this double-button shimmering lamé with metallic silver and red stripes print may look like the ultimate head turner, however I find it difficult to disagree that it will probably attracts the wrong kind of attention one would be expecting. Just when you think it can’t get any worse, the designer offers a series of striped linen blankets made into a Saint Laurent Striped Western Poncho, this oversize drape piece features studded adornments and tassels in the highest form of craftsmanship, probably one of the least desirable pieces found in the latest collection. These are hardly stuff dreams are made of, well not my dreams anyway.

But all in all, the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 menswear offers a refreshingly experience and no doubt with its diversified collection and will sell well to existing clients, as you may notice by now that most of the sizes has already been sold out! Based on its wealthy offering in a slowly growing class of consumers who appreciates American youth culture, craftsmanship evident in details, and authenticity of the past, will find the new Saint Laurent 2015 menswear a good place to invest. Shop the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 pre-order collection now at Luisa Via Roma or checkout the latest Saint Laurent arrivals now available at SSENSE.

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Outfit

Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated Black Leather High-Top Sneakers

8th September 2014

The Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated High-Top Sneakers is undoubtedly the ultimate metal-plated high-top series of its kind and sports as the leading flagship sneaker in Giuseppe Zanotti Fall Winter 2013. Bold, beautiful and beguiling, it looks and feels like the product of an Italian designer company at the top of its game.

A year since the Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated High-Top Sneakers was launched, it has made just as many waves as the profound classic double-bracelet series. The rigid silver-tonal metal bracelet house a fold-over velcro strap with signature-logo etched at the top vamp closure, but the real head turner feature here is the main gigantic one-piece constructed metal plaque which captures the power of luminosity, adding intrigue detailing more than the premium over contemporary double-bracelet editions.

Key specifications features a flat black leather exterior, tonal stitching, and rubber sole revolves the highest standard of luxurious materials epitomised from delicate textured finishes. The sleek hardware element accented the modernity sneaker through contrast refinement details, offering striking good looks and poise when you over step shoe game limits. “These are sneakers from the future,” said a friend who was captivated by the evocative silhouette and daylight eye-blinding mirror plates. Shop a range of diversified Giuseppe Zanotti Design men’s shoes available at multiple global boutiques in Farfetch.

But when you delve the extra large metal plaque that sit just right above the toes, it’s not such a great ideal as it first appear when footwear flexibility comes into play, as there is a bit far less practicality to go with. Other daily maintenance concerns includes the hardware rubbing into the upper vamp and cap-toe over a few wears which eventually eats into part of the delicate calf-skin finish. Nevertheless, this issue is a common Giuseppe Zanotti design imperfection that can be mitigated with a shoe polish.

I’ve always wanted the Giuseppe Zanotti Metal-Plated Black Leather High-Top Sneakers as it has been one of the most desirable and grandiose Giuseppe Zanotti high-top sneakers one can find in the marketplace. Many thanks to a devoted reader from Singapore who has convinced me to make the right decision and purchase this iconic statement piece that has delivered head-turning looks with real world usability. The best part is, they don’t make them anymore (at the moment) which encapsulates it’s rarity and questionable future residual value. Fetch the last few pairs fast! As the remaining sizes are only limited available at SSENSE for now, since the prosperous Italian designer is currently focusing on much more berserk experimental seasonal designs such as the 2014’s signature chain series, they even made a chain embellished edition which looks stunning in a spectrum of shades!