Browsing Tag

Spring Summer 2016


Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo Shirt

24th June 2016

The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo Shirt is the key print of the Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear, a second bite of the cherry and another hefty continuous collection series of Tisci’s iconic imagery thrown in the direction of fashioning religion with designs on niche leading streetwear monopolised by the house brand.

It’s a polo shirt specifically intended for anyone who admired the Parisian designer’s ambition in creating a contentious figure – Jesus Christ – but who balked at that designer’s almost thousand-dollars price. Or those who, for one reason or another, dithered and dallied for just long enough to miss out on it’s predecessor Givenchy’s Spring Summer 2013 Madonna menswear production run.

Low-volume editions are going to be an increasingly important part of Givenchy’s business model, and if it’s to be a successful part the designer needs to be smart enough to satisfy appetites like the one the Givenchy Madonna left in its wake. And so here it goes: this is street-ready religious propagandize, take two.

On paper, the $850 dollars Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo would appear to represent pretty poor value besides the $300 dollars cheaper and only a few details less potent regular print oversize t-shirts. But in reality nothing could be compared further from the truth. Because the moment when you set your eyes upon this street influence, religion burning, monster Jesus concentric polo, if you have so much as an ounce of addiction towards Parisian designers in your veins you will likely be hooked by it. At which point that initial brief glance will turn into a long-lasting gaze of childlike, slightly bewildered amazement, because beneath it’s be-winged cotton fabric skin is very much the real deal. It’s edges has been trimmed in a delicious combination of barb wire – a true testament feature to the house codes. It’s main print has been thoroughly reiterated to include a full on black and white gradient Jesus portrait, a controversial yet definitive figure in the modern day context. So what then is the new $850 like to wear?

The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo is quite an expensive piece to pay for and it only has a set of prominent details to show. First impression of the super-aggressive oversize print gives off a truly jaw-dropping presence when anyone first lay eyes on it. It has this amazingly old-fashioned charm that you just don’t get in anything similar nowadays. Number one of which is the achetypal double-stars on the upper chest – a symbolic aspect that represents the house brand, and number two of which is the way it looks, the first time if you set your eyes on this thing, your knees literally goes a little wobbly. It is breathtakingly beautiful to see in person and the complete set of barb wire housing the front, shoulders, and the back, makes any Givenchy enthusiast a complete sucker for details like these.

It’s incomparable to the other Givenchy predecessor league prints because of its eccentric uniqueness. The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo Shirt is accompanied by so much fantastically strong subjective impressions, that the moment one step out the door will definitely invite much gaze – more than what one could bargain for, it is not for the faint-hearted. The Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Polo Shirt only comes in one oversize cut which gives the wearer a comfortable fit, while sleeves are tapered to accommodate a closer fitting. It’s a method of what a proper polo shirt should always feel like, not too fitted, not too oversize, it does however sort of dynamic terms feels like it’s something from yesteryears, but they made some lovely designer wear in yesteryears, and yet this one in this year is easily the nicest Givenchy top I’ve worn.

Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Barb Wire Polo Print Columbian-Fit Shirt

Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Barb Wire Polo Print Columbian-Fit Shirt

Givenchy Black Piqué Jesus Barb Wire Polo Print Columbian-Fit Shirt

Continue Reading

Sneak Peek

Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Showroom Sneak Peek

30th July 2015

It is the third consecutive Safari and Adventurer collection we have seen, but the era of Balmain’s menswear has never been so superseded by something more. The first ever menswear runway show by the Parisian house not only mark’s a new milestone in its history, the collection itself differs to be somewhat different, combining the best attributes from its pedigree – most notable the Balmain Fall Winter 2014 Glamazon Boys and Balmain Spring Summer 2013 Military Safari menswear collections. The Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection can perhaps be best described as an innovated approach in practical luxury at ease, but of course there will always be those extravagant pieces one could only dream about.

The good old Balmain trademark treatment given to its latest menswear collection could only mean one thing, bolder looks, significant details, larger embroidery, distinctive embellishments and a lot more choice for the mortal with deep pockets to experiment. Despite it’s luxurious attitude and signature aesthetics it’s quite an understated collection, you can arguably wear most of the collection around town and not cause a single battled eyelid. Well of course if you opt for the right pieces, especially those that are heritage towards the classic biker or skewed towards the safari wearer, such as the cargo utility trousers and jackets to name a few. Isn’t that the best attribute of wearing Balmain? Understated elegance, only those who recognize the little details will be able to find genuine appreciation.

At the label’s showroom on 44 Rue Francois 1er, there were, admittedly, articulated clothing on racks sorted based on characteristics. At one end, there are the adventurer’s light linens in khaki and whites derived from the Safari concept, while the other side showcases the vigorous animal prints perhaps more suitable for a flamboyant celebrity, leading it towards powerful runway quilted leather, embroidered and embellished variants. But what we would like to see here are the pieces that were not featured in the runway, many thanks to global buyers we are able to have a prior glimpse on a small selection of commercialized pieces concealed from the public eye. These photographs are extremely difficult to source season by season, it seems as though Balmain is trying to retain buyers and guest from exposing them before the collection officially hits the stores worldwide from March 2016 onwards.

My favorite piece below has to be the Balmain Black & Khaki Union Jack Distressed Knit Sweater, also available in the traditional Navy & Red, which made a huge distinction on the runway show including various highlights on press. Although it was featured earlier, observing one on a hanger while privately modeled in the showroom gives off a real feeling to the quality and clothing interpretation that could be related to a daily wearer. Another piece that I am aiming to acquire is the Balmain Embellished Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket; you can see it hanging by the racks behind one of the models wearing the Balmain White Draped Sleeveless Cotton T-Shirt in the below image. There is just so much affection to it that I find it difficult to describe it in words, to me it is the perfect Balmain jacket from this season, and regardless of your point of view, it is truly a stunning piece and a worthy successor to Balmain Satin-Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket from Balmain Spring Summer 2012 menswear.

Besides the above, there are some tremendously brilliant details in the collection, take for example the Balmain Brown Latticed Embroidered Jacket. It is a single piece constructed from thorough embroidery handwork, one could only guess how complicated it is to produce this particular jacket, especially when the designer will have to make at least two common sizes (48, 50) throughout its production. These are literally works of art; imagine owning the latticed embroidered jacket or the rich golden embellished blazers from the collection? They may become just the thing fashion historians will reference in years to come. For men’s ready to wear, it’s the closest thing to couture. Personally, this isn’t your proper safari wear; it is your daily weapon.

61.J820.B139 — $1,368 (approx.)
Balmain Homme Spring Summer 2016 Collection


61.T513.D374 — $1,198 (approx.)
61.T996.BA31M — $2,235 (approx.)
Balmain Homme Spring Summer 2016 Collection


Continue Reading


Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

30th June 2015

It’s a story we all know too well, a collection that reaches an age and it gets the obligatory nip and tuck, in the hope that a fresher look will consecutively appeal to those buyers who are interested. The Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear seems to the case, a consistent streamlined collection that speaks toward its avid fans again, the usual college jackets, tartan plaid print shirts, stove-piped jeans and etcetera, but there was something different this season. Prior to the show release, Saint Laurent Twitter gave out a few hints of the upcoming menswear collection; it was called “Surf Sound”, an elaborative and dedicated contemporary Califonian surf music culture collection. One of many American inspired stories that curated by creative director Hedi Slimane has since he took the office at Los Angeles.

Surf Sound is an interesting mix of California flavored thrift shop fashion with an arty cool vintage appeal at a music scene, it is called a continuous effort to promote Slimane’s commercial and critical galvanization to the house of Saint Laurent, mind grunge style it is. Iconic looks were reference from Nirvana’s front man Kurt Cobain and Canadian musician Neil Young. The soundtrack of the show was exclusively composed by Swimmers, a band based in Oakland, Calirornia. The soundtrack called “Like Harry Dean Stanton” includes innervation song lines like “I wanna be 16…”. In the show interest itself, Hollywood male models Charlie Oldman and Dylan Brosnan strut the catwalk debut as their noble fathers, Gary Oldman and Pierce Brosnan watch them on from the front row.

The latest Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection translate an array of diversified surf culture looks, the only consistency here was substance. A classic Saint Laurent long tuxedo smoking jacket were retuned with a colourful Hawaiian Palm Tree sequinned lapel, eminent cropped leather jackets came out with distinguished micro studded trims and contrast red accents, while there was an abundance of mix tattered plaid western shirts with frayed-hem raw cuts – these were ideal essentials for the Saint Laurent enthusiast.

There were much more as the motif collection continues with jacquard embroidered floral prints, oversized military camo coats returns, daisy floral prints, contrast striped knitwear, animal prints on bomber jackets and scarfs, party confetti prints, and lastly polka dots. The first look was the strongest amongst all, featuring a multicolor and multiprint patchwork on a black leather zipper jacket that has a definitive meaning of concluding the entire surf sound collection in one single piece. Then there was the stove piped denim jeans, this time there were high-waisted and loose in fit offered in a blown-out destroyed knees variant. Even crisp white leather sneakers were made used as if it has gone through several years of hard wear – these were ironically a line of luxury-assembled duplicates of cheap items one could find in most Cali-thrift shop sale.

But replicating such looks at a fraction of a price point would miss the essence of Slimane’s influence, because nothing feeds in desirability like partaking in an emotional journey curated by an unequivocal sartorialist. The word “curator,” truly applies to Slimane who conjure an unprecedented vibe. The spirited youth he casts for models on the streets in California, the uncharted artists and musicians he discovers, and the garment he chooses to aggregate, all paints a picture we all know to well, but finds little appreciation to comprehend such cultures in a daily basis, these are the future archetype that he is trying to evoke in a faultless assembly.


The key items from Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection are the colourful souvenir alike teddy varsity jackets, one of the cornerstone garments renowned by the house. The new teddy varsity jackets are portrayed in retro touches with luxurious couture embroidery and beading, similar towards the highly anticipated Saint Laurent Blood Luster Embroidered Teddy Varsity Jacket from Spring Summer 2014.

For aspiration young fans, buying Saint Laurent might be just a dream away but considering the more affordable accessories are probably the fundamental investment one could attain. The white plastic bug eyed sunglasses is a trademark of Cobain were mostly featured by the models in this season’s show. Some of them also had his dirty peroxide hair, though it’s probably the sunglasses that have the biggest pull for the well-heeled Saint Laurent customer. Additional accessories such as beanie knit hats, tucker caps, red knit socks, and leopard print cotton scarfs are key aesthetics for a Saint Laurent gratification.




Continue Reading


Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

28th June 2015

For almost as long as I can remember, the Balmain menswear collection was one of the most desirable amongst the others. Back in the late 2010s, the creation of Balmain Homme by Christophe Decarnin was a small spark to a large beginning, while I wasn’t into fashion at that time I did get a glimpse to experience the collection a few years later, it was one of the most memorable fashion experience I had. I could still recall my initial attitude towards the collection and its exorbitant pricing, which I thought was ludicrous at that time. But just having the privileged to appreciate the collection in reality felt rewarding, and much more once I’ve acquired a few pieces that I’m proud to call mine.

The Parisian catwalk saw a vast number of models, almost 30 looks extra as compared to its previous Paris Fashion Week debut. Balmain Homme has champion larger collections in every season until most recently in history, the Parisian house debut its very first former runway show. Creative director Olivier Rousteing expresses at a backstage interview that although women have always known the designer brand, menswear has accounted for a respectable 40 percent of the business. This huge prospect gave Balmain Homme the opportunity to showcase its first menswear show that also features a few advance viewing of Resort 2016 womenswear. “I have a chance with my brand, it’s that my woman and my man can actually buy their clothes together. So I think it was important to do my first show, and at the same time have my girls, which is really an important part of the business, and connect them together. I think it is really interesting because at a lot of the brands, the men and the women are really different. My Balmain men and my Balmain women are really synchronized and I’m really happy with that.” said Rousteing. The latter modeled by socialite Peter Brant, whose younger brother, Harry, also walked in the show, including world’s most successful male model, Sean O’Pry and Alessandra Ambrosio who decked in women’s resort. When questioned about Balmain Homme’s future, Rousteing said he would like a fond remembrance of this moment to even after 5 years down the line.

For this forthcoming season, Olivier Rousteing seeks inspiration from a safari exploration; an adventurous traveler finding treasures, the masculine Balmain men discovering the world quoted the designer. This is the third installation reflected from the classic theme that was initially explored in the most recent Balmain Fall Winter 2014 menswear, and the antecedent Balmain Spring Summer 2013 menswear collection. The new Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear derives equally from both former collections and seems to shares the same sentiment across an array of looks that are unique in the modern day context. The collection infuses in shades of brown, khaki, caramel, neutral earth tones, dusty whites and occasionally juxtapose against blacks with gold embroidered accents, bewildered ponyhair tiger prints were among the signature aesthetics that gave creation towards a luxurious attitude. A letter left on the venue seats expresses the creative designer’s though process and elaboration towards the latest collection – “Theapeutic Value”, the most fascinating things about designing.

The Balmain Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection represents a crossroads of cultural influences and the desert exploration embodied a metaphor for creation. At the end of the journey, the created object was a cathartic symbol. Most notable elements were reintroduced references from the earlier quest in heavy innovation. The desert exploration starts with leather jackets were intricately braided and laced in heavy luxurious detailing, while explorer suit came spliced in a double-breasted jacket series with refined satin touches. Military influences were all over; utility pockets were made into cargos detailing with belted key ring fastenings in slouchy drop-crotched pants. There was even more room for opulence, ending the vast few in shimmery gold embellishments made on black outfits to retains the exclusive legacy, some were embroidered from in phoenix and lions. The collection felt extremely luxurious and thrillingly glamorous.

A second take on the open-toe gladiator sandal has returned for the following season, this time there is a new line-up in various shades of browns and khaki colourway, typically in calf leather or suede variants in high-tops mimicking desert military boots in periodic translation. The latest distinct feature is the multi-velcro fastening which is truly unique by its repetition design, while others were equipped with mountaineer laces. Last made available in Balmain Spring Summer 2015 menswear in a black quilted leather lace-up variant, we think it’s grotesque and less well-received compare to it’s sneaker and military boots counterparts.


First introduced in Balmain Fall Winter 2014 menswear in a ponyhair leopard variant, the wild party animal prints are back. Spotted near the finale of the show was the glistering Balmain Tiger Print Crest Embroidered Varsity Leather Jacket, a successor to its predecessor that may look delirious compared to the usual college wear, but this luxurious outwear is one of the collection’s ultimate masterpiece. I wouldn’t be surprise to see a few celebrities sporting one in the subsequent year.

Perhaps one of my most favourable statement jackets in this season is the Balmain Gold Embellished Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket, seen later near the end of the show is a classic piece that merit a second look. It is based on the earlier Balmain Satin-Lapel Wool Cropped Jacket that was first introduced in Balmain Spring Summer 2012 menswear, it was Rousteing’s first menswear collection as appointed creative director. The first series saw a python lapel that was worn by a few renowned celebrities; there was also a more accessible satin-lapel version which was later redesigned in following seasons. I find this a nostalgic piece simply because I own the earlier satin-lapel version, the new added gold embellished trims on the lapel redefines the entire outlook, the gold embellishments are plated like an scale armour – it exhibits a balance between masculinity and higher elegance, both attributes known to the house of Balmain.

The Balmain Camel Brown Drop-Crotch Cargo Trousers with suspended belt loops is an ideal piece for spring season, those who would like to break from the sweat can opt for the Balmain Camel Brown Utility Pockets Cargo Pleated Shorts in summer, but both of these styles are quite season based. If I have been given only one choice to pick the best out of the entire season, I would go for the Balmain White Cargo Leather Zipped Biker Sweatpants – this remarkable pair features various key elements that are significant to towards the Balmain Homme heritage, knee-ribbed details, oversized utility pockets on waist with belt loop fastening, and zipper embellished pockets.


Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Runway Show Look 1

Balmain Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Runway Show Look 2

Continue Reading


Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear

28th June 2015

If you were one of the many fans of the old Givenchy’s religion theme, then you will be happy to hear there is an upcoming future collection along the way.

Givenchy’s menswear show in Paris for Spring Summer 2016 menswear was a pleaser, in many senses. It features the distinct iconography that many of the cult fans were looking forward to, mainly thought provoking and menacing prints. The latest collection shares significant fragments with its antecedent and much anticipated Givenchy Spring Summer 2013 Madonna menswear and the earlier pioneered Givenchy Fall Winter 2010 Altar menswear, both former collections that places religion at the limelight while connecting several elements with the label’s latest style direction — namely pinstripes that derived from the recent Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 menswear. Addition to this, was a whole new five pointed star monogram motif that incorporates the designer’s brand name embedded in a structural arrangement, it was a divine.

This season Riccardo Tisci revisits his religious bent, an iconography signature administered since the beginning of his career at Givenchy. The creative director opened the show with models and celebrities strutting the runway in a relentless place. Hefty religious references advocating Tisci’s Catholic roots and prison-like ensembles of the latest incarnation made up the menswear collection. Taking inspiration for this season was Jesus Christ, the central figure of Christianity was surrounded by barbed wire taken from the ‘Crown of Thorns’ which was induced across an array of looks. The religious iconography continued not limited to oversize prints but some were even plastered in pin-ups cross variants as though they were taken off a scrapbook. Mostly portraits looks were scattered in trademark colours of black, white and navy along with pinstriped on many imaginable garments.

Perhaps the most intriguing and questionable subject in the biblical Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear was the numbers 19520 in convict bold lettering over the Jesus imagery. While these numbers certainly do not appeal through first observation or conclude a direct interpretation even after Googling. A theory of its implication could be speculate by adding up the existing numbers which aggregates to number 35. By perchance, the significance could be correlated to one of the Bible notes for John 11:35 “Jesus Wept”, is the shortest verse in the Bible and one of the most emotional.

It’s not uncommon to see how designers have a tendency to weave womenswear pre-collections into menswear shows. Givenchy has been leading such trends as early in 2013 and it also shouldn’t be a surprise to find celebrities taking the latest collections onto the runway itself. Tisci handpicked some of his favorite girls to grace alongside the boys which has been hyped during the post event. Kendell Jenner, Joan Smalls, and Candice Swanepoel were in couture gowns adorned with feathery, petal, fringed, and lacey dress in a range of soft cool pastels colours, they were some of the odd contrast set against the religious prisoner theme. However, the most exciting celebrity modelling stage was when Naomi Campbell closed the show with nothing more than a chain-glittered blazer over a black skimpy bikini which made a memorable moment for the show.


For aspirational cult fans, statement accessories are the way to go with the collection’s symbolic oversize key ring necklace featured dangling around the model’s necks. This distinctive jewellery represents a dramatic expression that is well-established with Tisci’s thought provoking style direction which may deliver the most value out of one’s investment.

For all one knows, the Givenchy Jesus Crown of Thorns Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt is perhaps set to be one of the most fast moving pieces when it hits the retail stores due to its large sheer presence print that gives off a menacing approach with the five pointed stars trademark element. Expected retail is around $1,300 much like the recent Givenchy Gypsophila Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt, nonetheless prices may fluctuate in the near future. The Givenchy Jesus Crown of Thorns Print Columbian-Fit Polo Shirt features the infamous Crown of Thorns detailing set against the edge of the polo’s silhouette, a cross reference from the ever-popular and still in demand Givenchy Shark & Mermaid Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt that has chain detailing as the earlier settlement.

In terms experimentation, the Givenchy Jesus Print Patched PVC Sweatshirt is an interesting option to explore. This unique sweatshirt is made out of a flexible PVC material replacing the traditional cotton fabric featuring Jesus imagery in random patches, but it simply feels out of depth and substandard compared to the sheer fabric overlay sweaters and t-shirts.
Mini cross lapel pins are a novelty feature amongst sharply tailored suits and coats that made up the building blocks for this Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear collection. While boxy cut silhouettes are at an abundance in pinstriped movements found particularly on short-sleeves cotton shirts and oversize shorts. Footwear wise, the designer has left us with a T-bar sandals and exposed cap-toe slits on casual leather shoes, personally I think they are really hideous as compared to what has been offered in the past. Lastly but not least, for those who can reach into deep pockets may be privilege to experience one of the most prominent pieces such as the Givenchy Pinstriped Chain Embellished Suits or outlined jackets and coats.


Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Jesus Religion Chain Runway Show Look 1

Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Jesus Religion Chain Runway Show Look 2

Continue Reading


Milan/Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2016 Schedule

12th June 2015

Finale at Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2015 men’s fashion show, June 2014

SAVE THE DATE — Time flies through a fruitful season and here we are after a quick lunge from the outgoing Spring Summer 2015 season. As now we are fast approaching Pre-Fall 2015 and Fall Winter 2015, with multiple retailers and designers already begun taking pre-orders since a month ago, while L’inde Le Palais and Antonioli took lead following renowned global luxury retailer Luisa Via Roma. Consequently proceeding towards Spring Summer 2015 sale at selected regions SSENSE that has kicked off as early as third week of the month in May.

The Milan and Paris Fashion Week is one of the most prominent anticipated events in Italy’s and France’s bi-annual fashion calender. Organised by the National Chamber for Italian Fashion and Federation Francaise de la Couture from 19 till 28 June 2015 in respective countries, with almost 100 participating designers around the world in various fashion categories from luxury to new talents promises endless excitements. Discover the latest schedule below and don’t forget to save the date! You can now watch it live at*last updated on 12 June 2015.


Source: Architectural Models of World’s Famous Landmarks (Vol.1): Milan Cathedral – Paper Model of Milan Cathedral, Italy

FRIDAY, 19 JUNE 2015
10:00 pm – Dirk Bikkembergs

9:30 am – Corneliani
10:30 am – Ermenegildo Zegna
11:30 am – Emporio Armani
12:30 pm – Costume National
3:00 pm Andrea Pompilio
4:00 pm – Jil Sander
5:00 pm – Les Hommes
6:00 pm – Marni
7:00 pm – Neil Barrett
8:00 pm – Versace
9:00 pm – Philipp Plein

Continue Reading